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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Long & Jim Wilson
Page Views: 136 total, 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Go about 15-20 feet up The Escalator and climb out onto the rounded face to the right (could be called an arete). A bolt with a 5.9 move leads to another bolt protecting the crux move. Very average.

Protection

2 bolts and gear for the belay (when we did it)

Photos

Nick ANgelillo
San Diego, CA
 
Nick ANgelillo   San Diego, CA
 
Its got 2 brand spank'n new bolts! Oct 17, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
I thought this little gem was terrific, and it sounds as though it would be a good idea to get out the drill and pop in some new bolts. My pro in order from the base: #2 TCU in opening 5.7 move; 1-2" pro before stepping out on to the face; bolt; .5 Tricam (pink one...you, of course, do use Tricams...?); crux Bolt (this is a soft .10- move); dbl. #2 TCU + #2 Camalot on first nice ledge in the Escalator. Then solo up to the rap tree.
This is a fun route to bang out and hit a ten-route tick list that takes very little hiking and has a lot of variety. Leave one rope hanging on the rap to facilitate TRs or a quick return for more leads in this immediate area. Mar 24, 2015
Nick ANgelillo
San Diego, CA
 
Nick ANgelillo   San Diego, CA
 
Does anyone Know if the bolts have been replaced? Jun 30, 2013
Not a bad climb at all. However, beware that as of 5.17.2009 the first bolt is the original 1/4" complete with rusty Leeper hanger. Also the second bolt looked to be a botched replacement and was bent. May 22, 2009
Adam Stackhouse    
 
A play on the line by Noel Coward which read "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun!" Feb 10, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
A few pieces of gear to supplement the bolts is a good idea - a 1.5" and/or a 2.5" piece where the route breaks away from The Escalator and a 1.5" piece in a short left-facing flake between the two bolts should do it. Sep 26, 2007