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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gale, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graceland T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Hair Face Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Charlie Raymond, February 1968
Page Views: 988 total, 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts with well-protected, secure liebacks. Higher up, there is a novel lieback (crux) with a committing runout. The rock is good, and the moves are fun. Rappel 120 feet from near the top.

Protection

standard rack
I did this route for the first time the other day and although I had to run it out a bit I don't think a person with the right gear would have to. There are about three rather evenly spaced pin-scars on the upper section that if you brought some very narrow headed cams along would make excellent placements. I was able to place a #1C3 in the first because of how narrow the head is and two lobes of a blue master cam in the other. I think a similarly sized tricam would work even better due to the narrow head and flexible stem. Mar 11, 2014
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
Weird how age changes your climbing style. In my teens in the late 70's, the crux trough was physical, sloppy, and insecure: Lean right against hands palming the rounded edge, and smear-walk my feet up the left side wall.

Back this spring after 30 years, I looked for the same combination, and didn't really feel it. But right of the trough, I saw and used a number of edges and nubs that made it a kind of technical, tricky, static and angled crimpy. It was rated 7 then, but felt scary. Still does...but totally different moves. Jul 18, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8 R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8 R
While it may be runout, for some reason it goes fast without a necessary feeling of insecurity. Feb 4, 2006