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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gale, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graceland T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Hair Face Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Smith, Tom Burns 8/73
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on the portion of face between Free Lance (5.10c) and Flatman Chimney (5.9) and identified as a prominent, right-arching undercling crack.

Start up Axe of God and then break right to follow the obvious thin flake which is underclung right to it's end where slightly runout but easy face leads to the top. Rap off (80') the large pine which sits atop the face.

Protection

gear to 2.5"

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
I thought this was a terrific climb, and I'd give it a couple of stars...That being said, there is one place in the crack where the rope likes to get really jammed below where the route intersects "Poppycock Arch", so be mindful of that if you are set to lead this little thing, which took lots of thin cams to protect. Otherwise it is a fun TR off the Rap Tree above. Aug 12, 2014