All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suicid… > Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of C… > Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Avg: 3.9 from 24 votes
Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
|Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R|
|Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1|
|Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1978|
|Page Views:||17,514 total, 121/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Jan 27, 2006|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982.
Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshua Tree, while rated only slightly easier, is a much easier tick.
P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficulty eases (5.11) and the crack opens up to accept better locks. Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch. P2) Back left into the crack and up the moderate (5.9) crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.
The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer to access the anchors.