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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 17,514 total, 121/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982.

Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshua Tree, while rated only slightly easier, is a much easier tick.

P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob, conveniently located next to the crack, above which the difficulty eases (5.11) and the crack opens up to accept better locks. Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch. P2) Back left into the crack and up the moderate (5.9) crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.

The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer to access the anchors.

Location

Just right of Double Exposure's sharp arete.

Protection

pro to 2" (include many thin nuts), bolted anchors
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
It's interesting reading about various climber's experiences on this route. I had to work hard to get it. For starters it never occurred to me that I might lead it, so when the TR was available one day I got on it. I did well and got the bug. Of course by the strictest standards this tainted my ascent. Since I was a cocky a-hole and held everyone else I knew to those same exacting standards I must contritely admit to this unintentional but factual weakness :-)

Leading it took at least four quality attempts in good conditions. I went over there a couple times on hot days when I shouldn't have and got smoked. When I sent it I had the rack sorted so there was no mucking with the gear other than to place it which is easy enough. It protects really well.

Getting up on the black knob must be the crux, but for some reason that's not where I would fall off. I would peel in the section between that knob and where it finally goes to fingers. So my opinion is that that next 15 feet above the knob is 5.12.

Michael's solo ascent blew my mind. I heard that Yaniro used to boulder up to the knob and then back down. But to be up on the knob in relative security and decide to finish it is the definition of confidence and it's close relative: boldness.

Some good climbers have derided the climb as a pin scarred mess. I also haven't seen them try it. I've yet to meet a climber who has the chops to do that rig who doesn't want it. Aug 16, 2017
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Johny Woodward is climbing The Pirate on the cover of Climbing magazine #104. Like Adam Stackhouse said, Michael Reardon free soloed this on July 12, 2006. Reardon reported that the first crux is in Zone 2-an ankle breaker, and the second crux is Zone 3-a trip to the morgue for sure. He also said that when he first tried the route a few years before his solo, the bottom crux was impossible, but later he never had a problem. Michael trained for this solo both physically and mentally. On the solo, it is not possible to traverse right (5.9) to the belay at the end of the first pitch. Being ropeless, Reardon had to push straight up on 5.11b climbing and skip the 5.9 traverse to the belay. Feb 7, 2014
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
After Yaniro's FFA this route was rarely lead for years. Fact is I never have seen it done. A for sure hardman route. Very thin!!! A trophy tick. Feb 7, 2008
An incredible route with amazing climbing. Hard and insecure. This is one I'll be going back to work on. Continuous, hard movement for the first 40 feet of climbing with a nearly indistinguishable crux somewhere around the black knob. Oct 22, 2007
Soloed by Michael Reardon May 25, 2007