Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 23,735 total · 115/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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History

This striking thin crack test piece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro, wearing EB's no less, who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year - the climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982.

Description

P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob conveniently located next to the crack, above which the crack opens up to accept better locks and the difficulty eases to 5.11.

 Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch. 

P2) Back left into the crack and up a 5.9 crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.

  • The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer to access the anchors.

Location

Just right of Double Exposure's sharp arete.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, many thin wires

 Bolted anchors

Photos