Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, June 1973
Page Views: 4,631 total · 29/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Ten Karat Gold is perhaps the finest route on the Weeping Wall and comes highly recommended, but be aware it's fairly runout with some long falls possible (especially on the 2nd pitch).

This is the right-most line on the slab proper and starts near a large oak tree below a ledge. Easy scrambling (5.0) up a right-slanting ramp leads to a large belay ledge and the start of the climb.

P1) Climb past two bolts, make a traverse right and then up to a third bolt (5.9); higher two more bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. P2) The crux comes almost directly off the belay as you traverse right to a small stance and the 1st of two bolts on this runout pitch. Clip the bolt and then work your way upwards, making some 5.9 moves way out from your last bolt. Clip the second bolt and your home free - a bit of slab paddling gains the top. Descend via Bye Gully.


All bolted, gear to 3" for last belay


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a R
Ah, yes... fond memories 15 years ago of cutting my runout teeth on the traverse (and then up!) to the first bolt on the second pitch. Good, exciting times for a relatively green climber. The classic on the wall in my opinion. Jan 20, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Indeed a classic. May 15, 2006
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Rap bolted! Huh.Totally out of carrotier of this FA crew.Hard to believe,First I've herd of it.One of the best,if not the best route on this wall. Feb 18, 2008
Saw the comment on the opening post about a Rap bolted second pitch and I must say it’s so not true. The slab may have been top roped from Sampson to see if it was possible but thats it.

you could be mistaken for the variation pitch which goes straight up from the belay at the top of the first pitch. There are more bolts on that pitch making it more popular maybe because you can’t even see the first bolt on TKG’s proper second pitch.

Thought I would clear that up.


visit this link to read a recent TR on this route.

Ten Karat TR Mar 19, 2008
Awesome route. Apr 18, 2008
Having forgotten my guidebook in the car, I ended up doing the White Line Fever finish not realizing the route went right. The moves to the first bolt on that pitch seemed significantly harder than those on the pitches below - maybe I should have moved left instead of dime-edging up the blank orange slab to the first bolt? That second pitch is fantastic, especially with the sun in your eyes, preventing any possibility of seeing the bolt you're climbing to from the bolt you just clipped! May 29, 2009
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.10a R
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.10a R
What an awesome line! 2nd pitch seemed much more serious than the first. After traversing way over from the anchor you finally get a glimps of the first bolt, still way above you. definitely satisfied my craving for spice! May 29, 2010
The cruxy traverse move at the start of P2 seems much easier if one is willing to stem wide. An excellent route,relatively sustained and very interesting the entire length. Dec 16, 2010
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Anyone with rack recommendations for this? Mar 1, 2012
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Quickdraws should be all you need for the route itself but take some gear (1.5" to 3") for the anchor on the last pitch. Mar 1, 2012
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Scary but not hard. Lots of edges for fingers--fingernails and feet. The runouts are the part that made it hard. Still, a GREAT route and a proud lead for anyone. LOTS of rope drag on the first pitch--I had long slings and forgot to use them at the traverse. The second pitch traverse doesn't produce rope drag because your first clip is well off the belay and AFTER the 10a crux traverse. Aug 22, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a R
Warmed up on this one once, then went over to Rebolting and took a monster fall! Mar 12, 2014
Indeed "R" but I felt quite solid the whole time. The best strategy would be to keep going, just enough of a hold will appear, I promise. Nov 18, 2014
Bryce Sawin
Orange, CA
Bryce Sawin   Orange, CA
Mike I'm not certain how either way taken would be mistaken as such. I just looked at a 2nd pitch Sundance photo, it brought back no memory until I turned this phone and the picture sideways removing what appeared as a unknown and opposite of 10 KG traverse. Sep 26, 2017
For the sake of history, it sounds like the second pitch was indeed rap bolted and confirmed by Rick Accomazzo. supertopo.com/climbers-foru… Mar 27, 2018
Thomas Claiborne
San Diego
  5.10a R
Thomas Claiborne   San Diego
  5.10a R
Definitely physically harder than hesitation at the same grade IMO but 10a seems right. Apr 22, 2018
I led the second ascent of 10KAu a week or so after John, Richard, and Rick back in 1973. All three of them egged me on, and they watched with great interest from the top as I led through the Window Pane. None of them said a word about the rap-bolted last placement and, I believe, they were quite disappointed as I led through without incident. And in pretty good form, I might add. Hah. Oct 27, 2018
Bob Gaines
  5.10a R
Bob Gaines  
  5.10a R
One of the great Idyllwild slab climbs. I free soloed it a couple times BITD when I was at the top of my slab climbing game. No rope drag! Oct 28, 2018