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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side

Battle of the Bulge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chatsworth Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Howard's Fifty Footer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mantle Fiend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mickey Mantle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pink Royd T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sensuous Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toxic Waltz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ultimatum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, April 1972
Page Views: 4,621 total, 32/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is perhaps the best route on the Smooth Soul Wall. It has mantles, edges, friction, and a novel traverse, all on excellent rock. With only three bolts and fairly sustained climbing, there are substantial runouts. Rappel 90 feet from a ledge at the end of the route (or continue up with an easy second pitch and walk off). It is in the sun all day.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

DannyJ
San Diego, CA
 
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
 
Great route. Condition of the route and bolts are still good. Run-out between second and third bolt is huge. Jul 8, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
Agreed with C Miller...The lowly grade is inviting, and that there are loads of very good edges all the way, this route is a real seduction ...even for the leader who's head is not there ...yet. Leading "Surprise" will not get one ready for this route...just sayin'...
There is potential for a 50-70 foot fall -down a bumpy slab- if one blows the 5.8 (second crux) moves just below the third bolt. This route is deserving of the "R", and kudos for the "Drill from Stances" FA team. While they may have been able to put in more bolts, it seems that the ethos of the early Stonemasters was to push the boundaries and not establish routes with gentle/fuzzy/kidplay reputations. Mar 24, 2015
johannsolo
So Cal
 
johannsolo   So Cal
 
The runout rising traverse from the second bolt is VERY serious if you loose your shi$. May 12, 2014
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
This was the first route I jumped on on my first trip to Suicide. I didn't know anything about it or the scary rep it had. I chose it because of the casual rating of 5.8. I can say that it was quite an eye-opener for me. I can still remember 25 years later moving out toward what I think was the third bolt with my heart just pounding and my nerves fraying. I made it to the top though with no falls and a great story. Good Times! Dec 14, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.8 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.8 R
Bruce - The "hub bub" is to alert those drawn to the climb by the mild grade that it's no sport route and is a somewhat serious lead for those climbing at or near their limit. May 19, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.8
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.8
Hey Guys; Whats all the Hub bub about the pro on this route? For that matter the whole wall! The bolts were placed on the lead where there was a place to get a stance to drill.This is a well protected route,done in the style of this Area and of the time.Thats why they call it (traditional) rock climbing. Feb 17, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8 R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8 R
Suicide? Aren't there just a bunch of boring slab climbs there? - Conversation I once had at Stoney Point with someone.

What a great character packed route. Dec 20, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8 R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8 R
This really is a fun route. A bit "spicey" as some would say, but the rock is so sticky and featured, that if one can overcome any insecurities of the protection factor, they can breeze right on up this. Jan 11, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.8 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.8 R
A good route for 5.10 (and above) leaders - this isn't a route you want to fall off when leading.

A direct finish (5.10+) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up from the 2nd bolt to join the last bit of The Fiend right before the anchors. Jan 28, 2006