PRINT: Rock Climbing in Suicide Rock, Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Suicide Rock

California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

General Description

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range.

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range.

This is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception.
It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right).

Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved).

Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box.

After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the (l) Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the (m) The Weeping Wall.

The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

Weather Webcam

http://www.climbidy.com/

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the shutter. A nice cool afternoon in 1994...

Randy Leavitt on the Paisano Overhang (5.12c), Suicide Rock
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Photo by Karin Leavitt (1985)

Randy Leavitt on the Paisano Overhang (5.12c), Suicide Rock Photo by Karin Leavitt (1985)

My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony Grice.

Jeff Gicklhorn on Insomnia.<br>
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Photo by Steve Cox

Jeff Gicklhorn on Insomnia. Photo by Steve Cox

View of Tahquitz from roughly above the South Face of Suicide Rock

Shot from Fingertrip. I noticed the climbers above Paisano Pinnacle and thought it gave the rock some perspective.

Kevin Powell on an early attemp of <em>Hit it Ethel</em> (5.12b R), Suicide Rock <br>
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Photo: Kevin Powell Collection

Kevin Powell on an early attemp of Hit it Ethel (5.12b R), Suicide Rock Photo: Kevin Powell Collection

Log on the approach trail that you must duck under to reach the base of Suicide. I'm curious about the change all hammered into it.

Low Pressure, Stonemaster style, in 1974.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Stackhouse

For the first timer, the trail to the rock base can be a bit unclear. From the road sign pictured above to the service road some 200 yards away is nice, with plentiful (but unnecessary) carsonite signs. From here, one hangs a right following the paved road for about a half mile, before turning left. After a carsonite sign or two, one encounters the "end of maintained trail" sign, and a quick steep little section. After this, the trail is somewhat evident, but deteriorates after this. Many windy days this year have left a lot debris (some real big downed trees too) on the forest floor, so the weave on the way up, may not be the same path taken back down. It is this run of the trail that could use the half dozen carsonite signs found below, and a bit of chainsawing. Feb 19, 2007

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

Very cold weather yeilds good results when climbing the thin face/slab routes, at least it has for me. Hotter weather increases the routes' difficulty IMHO. Oct 27, 2007

Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming

Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing. Feb 12, 2008

Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA

Suicide Rock FA list in chronological order (not that anyone but me cares)! If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. Paisano Jam Crack, 5.10a, 2/55 (1955!!!!)
2. Limp Dick, 5.10a, 5/59
3. Munge Dihedral, 5.10a, 1960s?
4. Surprise, 5.8R, 4/66
5. Goliath, 5.7, 6/66
6. David, 5.7R, 6/66
7. Surprise Direct, 5.9, 8/66
8. First Pitch, 5.8, 10/66
9. Captain Hook, 5.8, 10/66
10. The Step Away, 5.8R, 11/66
11. Sundance, 5.10b, 1/67
12. Buttress Chimney, 5.8, 1967?
13. The Pirate, 5.12c/d, 6/67
14. Hesitation, 5.10a, 7/67
15. The Hernia, 5.8, 8/67
16. Sampson, 5.9R, 8/67
17. Flake Out, 5.7, 9/67
18. Piasano Overhang, 5.12c, 1/68
19. Delila, 5.9, 1/68
20. The Breeze, 5.10a, 2/68
21. Pass Time, 5.9, 3/68
22. Frustration, 5.10a, 3/68
23. Sword of Damocles, 5.9, 3/68
24. Graham Crackers, 5.6, 4/68
25. Hot Buttered Rump, 5.10a, 4/68
26. Piasano Chimney, 5.8, 5/68
27. Axe of God, 5.8, 5/68
28. Flatman Chimney, 5.9, 5/68
29. Tabby Treat, 5.1, 5/68
30. Deception Pillar, 5.9, 7/68
31. Cats Cave Inn, 5.8, 9/68
32. Spooky Spike, 5.9, 12/68
33. The Guillotine, 5.8R, 10/69
34. Etude, 5.11a, 11/69 Oct 3, 2011

a d
Los Angeles, CA

As always in southern California, watch out for rattlesnakes. I almost stepped on one that was coiled on the approach to Buttress of Cracks. They are very camo'd. Jul 6, 2012

charles price

So I have to ask. havent done suicide in about 30 yrs. I'm looking for a bit of nostalgia left of sunshine face and around the corner was a 3 bolt climb 5.10a-c the climb was called something similar to ACDC (obviously it not that. I love the music, but I digress.) and just left of that climb was a 5.10D. I cant find these climbes in the online guidbook. Those climbs are were I met john long. he is definetly very graciouse. And I have nothing but pure respect for his soul and personality. So if you know these routes then I would very much like to know. My climbing career is at an end. all I want is to remember certain routes that were precious to me during those days Mar 4, 2023

Tradiban
951-527-7959

Not Clockwork Orange? Mar 5, 2023