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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Larry Reynolds & R. Wendell, 9/69, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison & Tobin Sorenson, 1974
Page Views: 11,451 total, 80/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun, clean crack route that requires more finesse than strength. The delicate crux section, with side pulls and shallow, flared foot jams, is well-protected with fixed pins. An easier finger and hand crack above leads to the belay. There is a second pitch, but most people rappel after pitch 1. This route is located just left of Flower of High Rank.

Protection

small to medium pieces plus quickdraws for the fixed pins
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I think it's probably appropriate that (most of) the fixed pins were removed. We often clip them without the ability to test them and confirm whether they're good or not. Plus, they can be a magnet for people leaving tat when bailing. When I did this climb, someone had tied a fat piece of 1" webbing through the top pin, so I couldn't clip into the pin itself. I had to fire wondering whether the webbing (or the pin) would hold if I blew the crux. Great climb with wonderful movement. Dec 7, 2016
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Didn't know about the bolted belay. Two/three nuts and a #1 friend is what I used BITD.

Will update the description. Thanks Jul 18, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
Yes there is a 2 bolt belay at the top of P1.. and based on the comments it's been there since 2012. Or maybe you're asking something else Adam? Jul 18, 2016
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Bolted belay now? Jul 17, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
There are Metolius Rap hangers at the top of P1. These are hangers that you can rap from without the need for quick links or rap rings. So to David that we met at the crag yesterday, you can stop installing quicklinks and complaining when they get pirated. But I do appreciate your efforts.


Also you can get down and TR with a 60m if you scramble up the low angle trough at the start of Flower. Jul 17, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Awesome route, I felt a bit runout over the now single pin, there were placements between the pin and the rest but stopping would have taken more energy than it was worth! May 29, 2016
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
as of 4/2/16 there is still 1 pin at top before the crux moves

route can be TRed with a 70M rope using the anchors on top of the 1st pitch, but very close, tie your knots Apr 3, 2016
GoBoy
 
GoBoy  
 
I plugged a grey & purple TCU in what looks like the 2nd removed pin scar/pod(?), standing up after the crux. They were a bit shallow, & the stem isn't perfectly down, but I think they're fine. Oct 26, 2015
Chitjian, I remember placing a great Green Camalot C3 above the pin. Jul 24, 2015
Got on this route on Saturday 6/13/15 does anybody have any beta on gear placement after the first pin? I placed a small micro nut above the first and only pin and then a few moves later I took a fall, and pulled the micro nut out and whipped on the pin below. Jun 15, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
I went up wast week at midnight and wap-bolted it with Euro-style Gwoo-ins (14 total) so my winkie didn't get all bunched up, but it was still too skeh-wie, so I packed it wiff axle grease like dey did to my good buddy Todd (RIP) on Park Avenue...or whatevew it wuz kawed... back when meanie peoples wuz crimbing wocks...
Hardy Har Har!!


Anyway, with all due respect, I thought the second pitch was
shee-ite, and detracted serious from the stellar climbing below.(This is the only serious/truthful comment by me in this thread...just in case you did not realize it...)


My recommendation: Rap from those anchor bolts at the money ledge with the 80m, and leave the rope hanging so all the lil' dough-gies can have a run at her!!
Hell, put a "Tip Jar" on the TR and charge by the foot!
Make it "No Falls = Free" for motivation, but money up before chalking!
Spoiler Alert:
Oh...one last thing: make sure to use that small black knob for the right foot at the crux...just sayin'... Mar 25, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Love the comment thread just above here. So, who's going to chisel off the crimps and say the smearing is enough? Mar 18, 2015
I filled the crack with cement after confirming that the there were bomber crimps on each side of the crack. Jan 2, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
I chopped the bolt anchor after confirming that a gear anchor can be built next to it. No, just kidding. One pin @ bottom of crux 6/28/14. Jun 30, 2014
johannsolo
So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
I removed two of the three pins in the Summer of 2012 after confirming that bomber small cams can be placed. May 7, 2014
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
As of May 2014 the pin at the beginning of the crux section is still there and healthy (I whipped on it repeatedly). As pointed out before, the old pin scars below make bomber micro-cam placements. G. May 5, 2014
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
As of 9/16/12 there is only one remaining knife blade. It is mid crux above the traverse. There are pin scars where the old pins were that provide excellent pro (especially with C3's). Route is pure, with delicate moves on good rock. Sep 18, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
You can get down to 3rd class terrain by rapping climber's right with a 60m rope from the anchors atop p1, so don't worry if you don't have a 70.

Also, this route is equipped with those great rounded metolius hangars that you can thread your rope right through. Convenient! May 15, 2012
JFK
San Diego, CA
JFK   San Diego, CA
I've taken a handful of 15 footers on the pin below the crux in the last couple weeks. The final pin is higher now and hard to clip until you've cleared the crux now. 4 pins total. 1 before the 10a traverse down low, 2 below the crux and 1 after the crux Jan 8, 2012
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
The last time I did this gem was probably mid/late 80's. Same old pins as the first time , except that one was now bent (forget which) rendering the eye unclipable, but providing a good, medium wired placement between the rock & bent metal. Maybe there's another dinosaur out there that remembers this unorthodox placement ? Aug 16, 2011
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Kinda interesting that this doesn't have more comments... Jul 5, 2011
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Both pitches can be combined into one with a 60m rope. The second pitch has an exciting move or two on so-so rock leading to secure jams, and then it joins the last ten feet of Flower of High Rank. Oct 3, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Fixed pins looked good on 10/26, so good that I whipped onto the 3rd one. Technical and a little tenuous, delicate not powerful. A 70m rope will put you about 15' off the ground in 3rd class terrain from top of p1. Oct 28, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
This is defiantly one of my favorite climbs on this side of the valley.A real gem!! Feb 11, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
I indeed gave that top pin a load test.... Mar 20, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
A wonderful line. If the pins are good then it's well protected at the crux, although I wouldn't be surprised if the top pin has taken more than its share of shock loading. Feb 24, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Outstanding climb that sux up nuts and small cams. Exiting P1, a 5.9+ move with shakey pro is encountered. Top notch. Feb 4, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
A great route that's more of a face climb at the crux (fixed pins are usually present); once past the crux the crack is no harder than 5.9 and opens up to wide fingers and then hands. The 2nd pitch is good as well, but most rap off (130') after the 1st. Jan 28, 2006