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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Bookhouse Boys T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Clark Jacobs, and Lisa Fry, July 1991
Page Views: 163 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Sep 25, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Same start as Etude, but instead of moving right to the middle thin crack, continue up the leftmost crack up to a thin fingertip lieback crux protected by two bolts, finishing at the 2-bolt Etude belay stance. (35-meter rappel)

Protection

Very thin to 2.5 inches.

Photos

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nathanael
Riverside, CA
nathanael   Riverside, CA
Pretty cool and natural line.. TR'd it, but it'd be a safe lead. Wondering if the original route went straight up past the 2nd bolt, staying true to the seam (hard and a bit dirty), or escaped out left (felt reasonably natural, but not as proud). May 4, 2018
Bob Gaines
  5.12a
Bob Gaines  
  5.12a
My notes say at the second bolt I moved left to another crack, which is followed up and right to the 2-bolt belay shared with Etude. (35-meter rappel).

12a between the first and second bolt. May 6, 2018
x15x15  
I hopped on this a few years ago. While on lead I wondered which way I was going to go above the bolts. But once I got up there it felt obvious, and natural to move a bit left to the crack and head on up to the Etude belay. May 6, 2018

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