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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar, 1974
Page Views: 2,523 total · 19/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.

Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.

The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.

Location

You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.

Protection

Finger to hand size cams.

Photos

Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
"This is getting strenuous!" Jul 12, 2015
AJ
 
AJ  
 
It's only 30' long, but inch for inch, this is a 5-star mega classic. What a wild and unique pitch.

I saw a guy gasping and cursing his way into the slot when I was just a kid, climbing Graham Crackers with my dad. I lived in fear of it for years after. I finally led it and of course loved it. I've done it 3-4x since and it's a thrill every time.

I'm sure most people do the Wet Dream in conjunction with the Flower, but it's cool to tack it on after Etude. The physical, intimidating climbing here is in shocking contrast to the delicate sequence on P1. Jul 1, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Quite the physical route. The slot you get into is slanting towards the ground. You feel like you are constantly fighting the slot from spitting you out. I was breathing VERY hard after I got to the end of the finger rail traverse. Super fun. Jun 16, 2014
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
Found the pod a little disorienting...the exit a tad thought provoking. Nice exposure.

ETA: I agree. Beached whaleing-it into the slot after a series of good jams felt like the crux. Aug 16, 2011
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it... Feb 18, 2008
Where is the crux of this not often done variation? Aug 26, 2007

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