Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar, 1974
Page Views: 2,706 total · 19/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.

Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.

The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.

Location

You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.

Protection

Finger to hand size cams.

Photos

Where is the crux of this not often done variation? Aug 26, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.11a
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.11a
The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it... Feb 18, 2008
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
Found the pod a little disorienting...the exit a tad thought provoking. Nice exposure.

ETA: I agree. Beached whaleing-it into the slot after a series of good jams felt like the crux. Aug 16, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
Quite the physical route. The slot you get into is slanting towards the ground. You feel like you are constantly fighting the slot from spitting you out. I was breathing VERY hard after I got to the end of the finger rail traverse. Super fun. Jun 16, 2014
AJ
 
AJ  
 
It's only 30' long, but inch for inch, this is a 5-star mega classic. What a wild and unique pitch.

I saw a guy gasping and cursing his way into the slot when I was just a kid, climbing Graham Crackers with my dad. I lived in fear of it for years after. I finally led it and of course loved it. I've done it 3-4x since and it's a thrill every time.

I'm sure most people do the Wet Dream in conjunction with the Flower, but it's cool to tack it on after Etude. The physical, intimidating climbing here is in shocking contrast to the delicate sequence on P1. Jul 1, 2015
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.11a
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.11a
"This is getting strenuous!" Jul 12, 2015