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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Jim Wilson, John Long, Eric Erickson, and Tobin Sorenson, 1978
Page Views: 2,822 total, 20/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 is the crux, with strenuous lieback and hand jams in good rock. The 5.9 second pitch is runout. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This route is in the shade after mid-morning

Protection

standard rack
Tradiban  
 
Tricky to get into the start. Sewed it up and milked a great kneebar halfway. Sweet!

Onlt "R" for P2 which is very skip-able. May 29, 2016
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
The pin is still there and is an essential piece of pro. A couple years ago, I went up to it with a hammer to test it a bit, to make sure it was still good. In short, that pin is welded and bomber. I didn't want to beat on it or break it, but the pin didn't move at all. It'll be a sad day if that pin ever breaks or cracks. I think if the pin were removed it might take a nice offset alien, but it's hard to say. I don't want to be the guy who breaks the head off the pin trying to find out if it'll go clean. Apr 21, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
I hear you there Pat C...this route is a bit scary, really physical, and it does not let up until you make the shift up and to the left to that ledge. It's in your face, and that there is zero pro on the approach stuff is not confidence building. Do this when it's in the shade, cuz' you'll be sweating enough anyway...
When I did this route in '86 it had a fixed pin to get you off the ramp and up into the dihedral...Is it still there? I did it with a dude by the name of "Rondo" Powell, and it really kicked his ass. Gargoyle and I were getting quite a chuckle out of his southern accent, "I don't know about y'all five ten climbers, Man!" Rondo went on to become a very good climber, but this was early on for him, right when he was first doing harder climbs. He was quite a character.
My rack, in order of placement: draw on the FP (?...and if that is gone, then try to slip in something really thin with an opposition to lock it in place as you step up to that sloping ramp)); #8 Rock (Med. Stopper) on rt. wall; #2.5 Friend; #2 Friend in Horizontal (pro at crux); #3 Friend four feet left; #3 Friend ten feet higher...This route would be real spooky without that fixed Pin...just sayin'...and would make that 5.10b entry move one dicey thing to commit to. Mar 23, 2015
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
A nice climb, but the crux will definitely give problems to those with poor jamming skills. The finish suggested by Kris is a nice way to go. The original second pitch is kind of meandering and a little runout, but not as scary as the 5.9 R rating suggests. Apr 7, 2010
Pat C
Honolulu
5.10c
Pat C   Honolulu
5.10c
This is one of the most brutal climbs I know. Jul 4, 2009
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
A nice variation is to do "Flakes of Quest," as you come up out of the crux of pitch one, traverse up and left into the business on Johnny Quest. Double rope technique is nice for this bit. Feb 19, 2008