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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Charlie and Paul Raymond, September, 1967
Page Views: 1,872 total, 13/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This is a well-protected two pitch crack climb, that traverses left for a long ways as it moves up. The crux is a short offwidth near the end of pitch 1. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This climb is in the shade most of the day.

Protection

gear to a #4 Camalot

Photos

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nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
You can do the first pitch and rap from the anchor on Jonny Quest for a quick warm-up. #4 is too small for the offwidth, though with long arms you can slot a nut way in the back. The OW/squeeze is a bit intimidating but it's over quickly. The rest of the climb is just walking across the tops of these enormous flakes. Cool position but forgettable climbing. Jul 18, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Gotta go with Chad on this one, especially when you consider the high quality of the other routes in the area...why waste the time? Maybe I did not like it because big cams were not made then... Mar 25, 2015
Chad F
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Chad F   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Terrible, got stuck in the squeeze for 1/2 hour Oct 24, 2013
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
I found this route to be way fun. Bring a #5 or #6 if you want to feel "safe" for the 5.7 ow Oct 12, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I like this climb. The rock is of good quality, there are some good vistas from it and the climbing is entertaining, especially the offwidth on Pitch 1. Apr 19, 2006