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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Bookhouse Boys T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond, W. Burke, and Paul Raymond, December, 1968
Page Views: 2,286 total · 15/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up Flake Out, but stop well before the offwidth. Pitch 2 is the crux - a thin crack in a dihedral. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This climb is in the sun only in the morning.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Bring micro nuts for the start. Oct 14, 2006
jay2718
 
jay2718  
 
Yep, #1 wild country rock, or thereabout protects the crux. Not much else there. The moves reminded me of the crux of cosmosis in Boulder canyon, but not quite as hard. You can easily reach the Etude rap anchor from this route. May 19, 2009
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
This was one of my first 5.9 leads, back in 1974, with Kelly Vought (The Troll). Worn out PA's and before camming units, and I couldn't get gear in for the most of the dihedrel. I was just barely making it at the top and made a big desperate heave, smashing my head into the overhang. I don't know how I hung on. I pulled over knowing I just came pretty close to dying. May 22, 2012
Tradiban  
 
Spooky indeed! The thing sounds like fiberglass when you knock on it. One hard move in the dihedral on a committing smear. Easily done in one pitch with a 70m.

To clarify the description this starts way right near √Čtude. Aug 6, 2012
dnaiscool  
 
I thought this was a cool route, and my rack was: #1-11 Stopper; .5-3 Tricam (you do use these, right?); #1-3 TCU; singles #.5-2 Camalot...plus the draws & runners you'd always bring...making this a pretty typical "Standard Rack"...and the Spike is, indeed, spooky! Good approach if you want to take a try on the Etude TR... Mar 25, 2015
Tradiban  
 
I recently tried the "direct" start to this below Flake Out. Got in one ok purple C3 but it was barely useful as it was only about 5 feet above the starting ledge, next there was an old piton that didn't look great, plus some grainy climbing in between, so I bailed. Anyone do this pitch lately? Aug 14, 2017

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