All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area

Queen Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Queen Mountain

41-Minute Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Cactus Slump, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Cirque of the Climbables 17 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Dreamscape Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Frontier Spires 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Frontier Wall 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Kachina Walls 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Kate's Crag 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Olympic Dome 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Pearls, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Rim Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Shark Fin, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Spy Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Spy Tower Corridor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Squirrel Rock 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Stone Flower Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Throne Of The Matriarch 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Top Block 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Tower of Power 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Walt's Rocks 12 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Watcha Call It Pillar 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,200 ft	1,585 m
GPS:	34.0481, -116.1021 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	99,124 total · 394/month
Shared By:	David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).

Getting There

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.

86 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 24 ● At Your Pleasure Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● K2R Trad Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 8 ● Where Were You? Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 62 ● Perfect Fingers Trad Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Icon Trad Olympic Dome
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 17 ● Treasure of the Sierra Madre Trad Cirque of the C… > Cirque of the Climbab…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 22 ● Crack Queen Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 29 ● White Rain Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Jamaican Bobsled Trad Olympic Dome
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 5 ● Pearl Drops Trad Pearls
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 29 ● Mojave Queen Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Pearl Necklace Trad Pearls
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Drag Queen Trad Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● Black Diamond Trad Olympic Dome
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● The Bloodline Trad Olympic Dome