Elevation: 5,200 ft
GPS: 34.048, -116.102 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,034 total · 289/month
Shared By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).

Getting There

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.

80 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
At Your Pleasure
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 3
Soup Rhymes with Poop
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
K2R
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Escape to Queen Mountain
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Perfect Fingers
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Red Sonja
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Icon
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Crack Queen
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
White Rain
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
Mojave Queen
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Drag Queen
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Black Diamond
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Bloodline
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Eternal King
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
At Your Pleasure Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Soup Rhymes with Poop Cirque of the C… > Cirque of the Climbab…
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, TR
K2R Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Escape to Queen Mountain Squirrel Rock
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Perfect Fingers Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
 41
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Sonja Throne Of The Matriarch
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Icon Olympic Dome
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Treasure of the Sierra Madre Cirque of the C… > Cirque of the Climbab…
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Crack Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
White Rain Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mojave Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 21
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Drag Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Black Diamond Olympic Dome
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Bloodline Olympic Dome
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Eternal King Walt's Rocks > Underground Chasm
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Queen Mountain »

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