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Elevation: 5,200 ft 1,585 m
GPS: 34.0481, -116.1021
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Page Views: 99,091 total · 402/month
Shared By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).

Getting There Suggest change

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.

86 Total Climbs

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Location: Queen Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
At Your Pleasure
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
K2R
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 8
Where Were You?
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Perfect Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Icon
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Crack Queen
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
White Rain
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Jamaican Bobsled
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Pearl Drops
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
Mojave Queen
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Pearl Necklace
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Drag Queen
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Black Diamond
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
The Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
At Your Pleasure Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
K2R Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Where Were You? Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Perfect Fingers Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
 61
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Icon Olympic Dome
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Treasure of the Sierra Madre Cirque of the C… > Cirque of the Climbab…
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Crack Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
White Rain Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jamaican Bobsled Olympic Dome
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pearl Drops Pearls
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Mojave Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Pearl Necklace Pearls
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Drag Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Black Diamond Olympic Dome
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Bloodline Olympic Dome
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Queen Mountain »

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