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Areas in Queen Mountain

41-Minute Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cactus Slump, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cirque of the Climbables 16 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Dreamscape Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Frontier Spires 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Frontier Wall 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Kachina Walls 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Kate's Crag 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Olympic Dome 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pearls, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Rim Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Shark Fin, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Spy Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Spy Tower Corridor 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Squirrel Rock 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Stone Flower Tower 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Throne Of The Matriarch 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Top Block 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Tower of Power 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Walt's Rocks 12 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Watcha Call It Pillar 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).

Getting There

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.

78 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Your Pleasure
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escape to Queen Mountain
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfect Fingers
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Sonja
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Icon
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Queen
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rain
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mojave Queen
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Diamond
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Bloodline
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eternal King
Sport
At Your Pleasure Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Escape to Queen Mountain Squirrel Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Perfect Fingers Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Sonja Throne Of The Matriarch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Icon Olympic Dome 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Treasure of the Sierra Madre Cirque of the Cli… > Cirque of the Climbables - Left… 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Crack Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
White Rain Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Upper Mojave Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mojave Queen Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Black Diamond Olympic Dome 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Bloodline Olympic Dome 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Eternal King Walt's Rocks > Underground Chasm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Pass the regular parking lot for Barker dam and continue down the dirt road for a spell. A parking lot will appear by a locked gate, along with a brick shithouse (?), and park there. The trail takes off from here and sorta heads climbers right. Check it out on google maps to get a nice overlook: goo.gl/maps/kc1inRNyZwu

I believe this is Uncle Willies proper: goo.gl/maps/cKntr6UL7UC2 Nov 10, 2017
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
Hello, where is the Uncle Willy's parking area mentioned above? Nov 10, 2017

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