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Elevation: 8,001 ft
GPS: 37.845, -106.289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,517 total · 393/month
Shared By: Rog on Nov 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

As my (arbitrary) name suggests, the inner portion of Penitente proper - anything after the side canyon. You know you're there when you see the Virgin Mary on the wall. Just to the right of the virgin are a couple classics - Tanks for the Hueco (a great climb for mere mortals) and Bullet the Blue Sky (great for mortals to look at).

Getting There

...follow the main trail...

69 Total Climbs

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Location: Penitente - Inner Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Penitente - Inner Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 175
● How The West Was Won
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
● Ms. Cool
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 46
● Apes in Estrus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
● Jewel Of The Mild
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 62
● Children Of A Lesser Grade
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 72
● Concupiscent Curds
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 213
● Tanks for the Hueco
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
● Breakdown Dead Ahead
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
● Brown Sugar
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 242
● Not My Cross To Bear
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 66
● Shear Strength
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 117
● Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
● Dazed and Confuzed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
● Sister of Mercy
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 65
● Bullet the Blue Sky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● How The West Was Won
 175
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Ms. Cool
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Apes in Estrus
 46
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Jewel Of The Mild
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Children Of A Lesser Grade
 62
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Concupiscent Curds
 72
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● Tanks for the Hueco
 213
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Breakdown Dead Ahead
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Brown Sugar
 42
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Not My Cross To Bear
 242
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Shear Strength
 66
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
 117
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Dazed and Confuzed
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Sister of Mercy
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Bullet the Blue Sky
 65
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Penitente - Inner Canyon »

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Photos

The show case of the Inner Canyon, as viewed through a hole at the top of the canyon.
The show case of the Inner Canyon, as viewed th…
 18
Bouldering in the Inner Canyon, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Bouldering in the Inner Canyon, photo: Bob Hora…
 3
Further up the canyon, past Huecos Rancheros, there's a fun little 3 bolt line on the right (5.6/5.7ish) and a short roof-to-slab on the left. I do not know what they are.
Further up the canyon, past Huecos Rancheros, t…
 2

5 Comments

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Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
Speaking of the Virgin.....does anyone know who chipped (drilled)the holds on that (unlisted) route of the same name ??? Oct 11, 2002
Legs Magillicutty
Durango
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
There are chipped/drilled holes all over the canyon, especially in the area of the Virgin. As my boyfriend was climbing Bullet, I noticed that someone went back in and filled in some holes with epoxy. Chipping is for WUSSIES!!!! Sep 2, 2003
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
Chipping is lame. Are some of those holes around the painting of the Virgin bullet holes that have been repaired? Thad Sep 2, 2003
Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
The route Virgin No More was chipped or drilled by D'Antonio I heard. Sep 3, 2003
Stewart M. Green
Stewart M. Green  
Bob D'Antonio didn't chip the Virgin or any other route in the canyon so that's a pretty harsh accusation to hurl at a guy who really developed and opened up Penitente Canyon. I know who chipped the Virgin as well as did some enhancing on Bullet. He knows who he is. I hope he knows it was lame. Chipping lowers the route to your own meek self. Better to elevate your skill to the rock or not climb it... Oct 8, 2003