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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos Rancheros) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

As my (arbitrary) name suggests, the inner portion of Penitente proper - anything after the side canyon. You know you're there when you see the Virgin Mary on the wall. Just to the right of the virgin are a couple classics - Tanks for the Hueco (a great climb for mere mortals) and Bullet the Blue Sky (great for mortals to look at).

Getting There

...follow the main trail...

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Penitente - Inner Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 168
How The West Was Won
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
Ms. Cool
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 45
Apes in Estrus
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 77
Jewel Of The Mild
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 61
Children Of A Lesser Grade
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 71
Concupiscent Curds
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 207
Tanks for the Hueco
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 56
Breakdown Dead Ahead
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 41
Brown Sugar
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 231
Not My Cross To Bear
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 63
Shear Strength
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 111
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Dazed and Confuzed
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
Sister of Mercy
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 65
Bullet the Blue Sky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
How The West Was Won
 168
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ms. Cool
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Apes in Estrus
 45
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Jewel Of The Mild
 77
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Children Of A Lesser Grade
 61
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Concupiscent Curds
 71
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Tanks for the Hueco
 207
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Breakdown Dead Ahead
 56
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Brown Sugar
 41
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Not My Cross To Bear
 231
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shear Strength
 63
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
 111
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dazed and Confuzed
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sister of Mercy
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bullet the Blue Sky
 65
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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Speaking of the Virgin.....does anyone know who chipped (drilled)the holds on that (unlisted) route of the same name ??? Oct 11, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
There are chipped/drilled holes all over the canyon, especially in the area of the Virgin. As my boyfriend was climbing Bullet, I noticed that someone went back in and filled in some holes with epoxy. Chipping is for WUSSIES!!!! Sep 2, 2003
Chipping is lame. Are some of those holes around the painting of the Virgin bullet holes that have been repaired? Thad Sep 2, 2003
The route Virgin No More was chipped or drilled by D'Antonio I heard. Sep 3, 2003
Bob D'Antonio didn't chip the Virgin or any other route in the canyon so that's a pretty harsh accusation to hurl at a guy who really developed and opened up Penitente Canyon. I know who chipped the Virgin as well as did some enhancing on Bullet. He knows who he is. I hope he knows it was lame. Chipping lowers the route to your own meek self. Better to elevate your skill to the rock or not climb it... Oct 8, 2003

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