Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 4/88
Page Views: 216 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Amato on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

Use the same start as Children of a Lesser Grade, but step right and follow a slick slab along a white water streak past two bolts to the anchors. It's a bit run-out to the first bolt, so be ready or just stick-clip it. This has good stone, but the entrance holds are starting to get polished.

Protection

[4] bolts + anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
One of the anchor hooks is still missing. You can easily move to the left and lower off the hooks of Children Of A Lesser Grade to avoid lowering off one bolt.

The run-out is only up to the first bolt; the movements are tricky, and it's worth stick-clipping or at least having an attentive spotter....

I felt this route (5.9) and Children Of A Lesser Grade (10c) were of comparable difficulty. Both were fun! Worth getting on versus waiting in line for a "classic". May 30, 2016
Forrest L.  
 
One of the anchor hooks is missing its gate. Jul 7, 2014
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9
There are 4 bolts as of Bob D's Anchor replacement weekend May 2012. Total upgrade including a new 1st bolt and Mussy Hook anchors. Oct 28, 2013
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
  5.9
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
  5.9
A new hanger was added a bit lower by Bob a few weeks ago to take some of the bite out of that high first one. May 29, 2012
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.9+ R
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.9+ R
There are only 3 bolts w/ 2 bolt anchor. Sep 2, 2011
NEH
 
NEH  
 
Funny, the crux start move on this is the same crux move on the 10c to the left. I'm not sure why one was given 10c and the other 5.9. Apr 10, 2011
Ryan Raef
Texas
  5.9+ R
Ryan Raef   Texas
  5.9+ R
Definitely seemed harder than 5.9 if you're not a slab climber. Aug 8, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route that is harder than it looks. Crux is getting off the ground and then around the 3 bolt. If you get off the ground, the run out is quite easy to the first bolt. Good climb! Jun 14, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
This climb is harder than it looks, especially if slab is not your thing. Jun 1, 2009
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
You can basically step down if your balance starts to slip on the first move. Above that is easy until above the first somewhat runout bolt. Jun 16, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
This is a fun climb and a great slab warm up. May 29, 2007
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
There are three bolts on this route. The runout to the first bolt isn't that bad, not much for the hands but huge sloping footholds. The crux for me was at the third bolt. Jun 19, 2006
kirkadirka
Boulder
5.9
kirkadirka   Boulder
5.9
I believe there are now 4-5 bolts on this one as of 5/27/06. Jun 5, 2006
It looks like a third bolt has been added up high. Jun 3, 2005
The crux is getting off the ground. A bit tricky, but safe if your belayer spots you. You can clip the first bolt of Children of a Lesser Grade (use a long runner) to cut down on the run out to the first bolt. May 22, 2005