Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 4/88
Page Views: 369 total · 2/month
Shared By: Michael Amato on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Use the same start as Children of a Lesser Grade, but step right and follow a slick slab along a white water streak past two bolts to the anchors. It's a bit run-out to the first bolt, so be ready or just stick-clip it. This has good stone, but the entrance holds are starting to get polished.

Protection

[4] bolts + anchor.

Photos

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The crux is getting off the ground. A bit tricky, but safe if your belayer spots you. You can clip the first bolt of Children of a Lesser Grade (use a long runner) to cut down on the run out to the first bolt. May 22, 2005
Michael Amato
  5.9
Michael Amato  
  5.9
It looks like a third bolt has been added up high. Jun 3, 2005
kirkadirka
El Manzano
5.9
kirkadirka   El Manzano
5.9
I believe there are now 4-5 bolts on this one as of 5/27/06. Jun 5, 2006
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
There are three bolts on this route. The runout to the first bolt isn't that bad, not much for the hands but huge sloping footholds. The crux for me was at the third bolt. Jun 19, 2006
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
This is a fun climb and a great slab warm up. May 29, 2007
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
You can basically step down if your balance starts to slip on the first move. Above that is easy until above the first somewhat runout bolt. Jun 16, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
This climb is harder than it looks, especially if slab is not your thing. Jun 1, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route that is harder than it looks. Crux is getting off the ground and then around the 3 bolt. If you get off the ground, the run out is quite easy to the first bolt. Good climb! Jun 14, 2009
Ryan Raef
Texas
  5.9+ R
Ryan Raef   Texas
  5.9+ R
Definitely seemed harder than 5.9 if you're not a slab climber. Aug 8, 2009
NEH
 
NEH  
 
Funny, the crux start move on this is the same crux move on the 10c to the left. I'm not sure why one was given 10c and the other 5.9. Apr 10, 2011
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.9+ R
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.9+ R
There are only 3 bolts w/ 2 bolt anchor. Sep 2, 2011
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
  5.9
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
  5.9
A new hanger was added a bit lower by Bob a few weeks ago to take some of the bite out of that high first one. May 29, 2012
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9
There are 4 bolts as of Bob D's Anchor replacement weekend May 2012. Total upgrade including a new 1st bolt and Mussy Hook anchors. Oct 28, 2013
Forrest L.  
 
One of the anchor hooks is missing its gate. Jul 7, 2014
Izzy K.
Jackson, WY
 
Izzy K.   Jackson, WY
 
One of the anchor hooks is still missing. You can easily move to the left and lower off the hooks of Children Of A Lesser Grade to avoid lowering off one bolt.

The run-out is only up to the first bolt; the movements are tricky, and it's worth stick-clipping or at least having an attentive spotter....

I felt this route (5.9) and Children Of A Lesser Grade (10c) were of comparable difficulty. Both were fun! Worth getting on versus waiting in line for a "classic". May 30, 2016
Raymon Bonner
Boulder
Raymon Bonner   Boulder
Definitely felt this was closer to a 10b or c. Maybe some holds have broken off, but this had some really technical moves when I climbed this one. Great slab route for sure! May 4, 2018