Type: Sport
FA: Alex Colville
Page Views: 543 total · 3/month
Shared By: A. R. Williams on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Anatom is located aproximately 200 meters above the Hueco Wall, on the new trail to Witches Canyon. Two cams are often used to reach the first bolt, it is an easy stick clip from the rock the belayer can sit on. The first 20 feet (where the cams would be used) has a nice crack for gear placement. The upper portion is moderate Penitente face rock with small edges and a few huecos to good easy anchors.

Protection

Two medium-sized cams may be used to reach the first bolt. From there on up, it is well-bolted by six bolts to coldshut anchors. To toprope this climb, I advise using a rope around a small cedar to get to the anchors.

Photos

The first time I went to Penitente a few years ago, I was lucky enough to run into Alex Colville, who showed my around the canyon. He put the route up after the bolting ban, and he said it was 5.8, which I think is about right. Apr 15, 2007
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
5.8
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
5.8
I don't lead 5.10 and had no problem setting this up. It goes 5.8. Great route with an obvious mantle move above the high first bolt. Rightmost route on the wall. Jun 9, 2009
Steven Reneau  
5.8
5 bolts.
There are 4 unknown routes between Hueco Wall and here, and 3 more immediately left. Jul 8, 2018