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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: McLaughlin and Schuler, 1987
Page Views: 10,968 total, 56/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Top down, sport painting. Legend has it while suspended in a tire. Jul 26, 2016
SammyJ
Colorado springs
SammyJ   Colorado springs
What's the ethic on artwork on the walls in the canyon? Was the Virgin painted on lead or topdown? Jul 25, 2016
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
This route was upgraded a year ago, and the two remaining studs were removed/patched 05/24/2014. May 27, 2014
NEH
  5.11+
NEH  
  5.11+
One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route! Mar 29, 2011
MonksUseBroaddison   luxury
A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing. Jan 27, 2009
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend. Aug 24, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks. Nov 7, 2007
Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route. May 26, 2003
I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks. Jul 3, 2002
It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago. Jun 10, 2002
This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary.... May 18, 2002