Type: Sport
FA: McLaughlin and Schuler, 1987
Page Views: 11,898 total · 57/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.
This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary.... May 18, 2002
It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago. Jun 10, 2002
I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks. Jul 3, 2002
Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route. May 26, 2003
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks. Nov 7, 2007
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend. Aug 24, 2008
MonksUseBroaddison   luxury
A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing. Jan 27, 2009
NEH
  5.11+
NEH  
  5.11+
One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route! Mar 29, 2011
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
This route was upgraded a year ago, and the two remaining studs were removed/patched 05/24/2014. May 27, 2014
SammyJ
Colorado springs
SammyJ   Colorado springs
What's the ethic on artwork on the walls in the canyon? Was the Virgin painted on lead or topdown? Jul 25, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Top down, sport painting. Legend has it while suspended in a tire. Jul 26, 2016