Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,930 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Jul 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This route is the middle of three routes on the east-facing wall on the south side of the canyon across from the Bullet the Blue Sky area. A cool start leads to a smooth face and hard pockets and crimps. Right when the holds seem to disappear at the last bolt, reach a good sidepull up on the slab and the anchors. The last clip is very difficult.

Protection

5 bolts and anchors.

Photos

The sidepull out right of last clip is key...this one blew my onsight!!! Damn! Don't miss it...excellent climb. Nov 6, 2002
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
This is a great route because it is much more gymnastic than many Penitente routes...in fact, you can even get a no-hands knee bar right at the start! If you think this route is crimpy, then you haven't climbed at Penitente much...I'd say it's par for the course.

This is a very nice piece of stone. It's shady in the middle of the day when everything else is greasing, so it's a great option. Oct 18, 2005
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
I thought this was easier and much better than Dazed A.C. The movement was much more aesthetic and not nearly as cryptic or power-crimpy. May 11, 2014
b hof
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.12b
b hof   Santa Clarita, CA
  5.12b
I think the 5th bolt would have been better placed a foot lower, that way you could clip it from a better stance at the 2 pockets. Apr 5, 2015