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El Dedo Es la Llave
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 37
votes
Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon
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10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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7/11 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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A Horse Named Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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A Horse With No Name S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Air Jordan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ball Bearings S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Jesus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Bob's World S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Breaking Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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BVB American Hero (submitted as New Dihedral) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cara de Hueco S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Concupiscent Curds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crack of Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creature Fear S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dan’s Hideaway S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Years S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heaven Can Wait T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos Rancheros) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Innocent Mission S V5 6C |
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Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jabba the Hutt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jesus Wouldn't Climb It T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jewel of the Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mourning in the Creak S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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My Body is a Cage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ordinary People S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Santa Cruz T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slabbo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thelma and Louise S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thumb Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.3 S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unnamed 5.4 S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Virgin, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Warlock V2 5+ |
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We Found This Spoon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Doug Ranck |
| Page Views: | 1,924 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
El Dedo Es la Llave is the left-most climb on the Hueco Wall and tackles the roof at its steepest point. The route requires a long reach from one very good under-cling hueco to another, and my (5'4") partner had a slightly harder time than I did, but the holds over the roof are very big and make this a fun (but short) route.
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