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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Will Gadd '86
Page Views: 609 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 29, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

This route comes to us from a different era...an era in which bolts were only placed, when no other gear options existed...and so, it is scarry!

This is a really great route, with good climbing, but unfortunately, the lack of fixed pro has [relegated] it to obscurity. The route climbs the crack feature left of the virgin painting. Start by stemming a couple desperate moves to reach a crack where the #1 cam can be placed. A few more placements will get you to a ledge...the #.5 is nice to protect the move getting to the 2nd bolt. The crux involves moving between crack systems between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are no anchors, but you can lower or (better yet) rap off the "Los Hermanos..." anchors.

A good route that could be very popular if it were "modernized".

Protection

Bolts, #1 Camalot, #2 TCU, #.5 Camalot

Photos

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Ironic that people are saying "color me..." since morada means purple in Spanish. It also is a chapel for Los Hermanos del Penitente. Nov 5, 2005
I am so not offended. No apology necessary. Just making an observation. Love the Troll Nov 5, 2005
ac
ac  
Or, to answer Jim Redo's (non-rhetorical) question more simply:

Yes, Jim, you are correct. Nov 5, 2005
ac
ac  
No, color me a troll. What would the rating be after modernization? Nov 4, 2005
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I won't "color you crazy", but I will color you a troll for asking a rhetorical question.

Of course you're not "supposed" to place bolts near other protection options, but people do, and they make for good, popular routes. At sport areas, "mixed routes" usually do not become popular. I'm not suggesting this should or shouldn't be, or that it is good or bad, I'm merely stating it as fact. For examples of such routes, visit Rifle, Shelf Road, Smith Rock, Penitente, American Fork, Logan, the VRG, Red Rocks etc..

I thought it might be helpful in the route description to explain why I think the route is not popular. If someone visits the canyon and asks themselves, "should I try this route? I don't know, [it's not] very popular, is that because it's a bad route?" They would be able to read my comments on CB.com and see that, "Oh, it's not that it's a bad route, it's just that you have to place gear, so maybe I will try it, or maybe I'm like everyone else that visits sport crags and doesn't climb the mixed routes, so no, I won't try it."

I'm sorry that my description of possibly the most obscure route in all of Colorado has offended you. Please accept my apologies.

Mike Nov 4, 2005
Color me crazy, but aren't bolts supposed to be placed only when there are no other gear options anyway? Nov 3, 2005