All Locations > Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Unbound

Name: Unbound
Rating: 1.6

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	1 Percent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	2 Percent S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	7/11 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	A Horse Named Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	A Horse With No Name S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ball Bearings S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Black Jesus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Bob's World S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Breaking Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	BVB American Hero (submitted as New Dihedral) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cara de Hueco S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Concupiscent Curds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Creature Fear S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Crucifixion Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Dan’s Hideaway S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Golden Years S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Heaven Can Wait T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos Rancheros) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Innocent Mission S V5 6C
	Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Jabba the Hutt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jesus Wouldn't Climb It T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Jewel of the Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Mourning in the Creak S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Body is a Cage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Ordinary People S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pinch a Nip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pink Moon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Power Play S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rubber Bullet (open project?) S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Santa Cruz T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sheer Lunacy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Slabbo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Slabbo Arete (submitted as Unknown 5.10d) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Slabbo Crossing (submitted as Unknown (5.6 ramp)) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Thelma and Louise S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Thumb Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Thumb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tweaker's Dream S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unicorn, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder Left V2 5+
	Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder Right V5 6C
	Unnamed 5.3 S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Unnamed 5.4 S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Virgin, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Warlock V2 5+
	We Found This Spoon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Bob D'Antonio
Page Views:	967 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Ron Olsen on Mar 6, 2005 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021 Details

Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.

Description

The route is located about 10-15 left of the Children of a Lesser Grade slab.

Boulder up to the first bolt. Make several hard moves up a thin-technical seam to a ledge. Crank up the ramp and face above to a two-bolt anchor.

There was a bolting ban in the canyon that lasted for several years that when from the start of the canyon to the Virgin Wall.

This route is not in that area. Great addition to the area.

Per Jason Young: this is a challenging route that is steep, thin, and a bit crumbly.

It is divided into three sections starting with a crack feature off of the ground that continues up to the first ledge (crux section). The crack is not used as much as one would think (I used mostly thin face holds to the left of the crack). The route continues past this ledge to a tricky bulge that is surmounted on thin holds to another ledge feature (second section) and easier climbing on the final headwall to the anchors.

It is probably worth doing if you have done most of the other routes here of this grade.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions merged onto the 1st submission page to reduce confusion and duplication.

Location

Per Jason Young: this route is located immediately to the right of "Jack and Diane" just before the break in the cliff that is left of "Jewel of the Mild".