Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Brian Mullin, & Charles Walters, 10/87
Page Views: 11,300 total · 54/month
Shared By: Rog on Nov 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


210 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Pretty obvious once you're there. Use 'Bullet the Blue Sky' as a reference - this is just to the right of it. Start with a short, (kinda) slick slab. From the top, clip the first bolt, and then do a strenuous, slick layback followed by a 'beached whale' move that leaves you on top of the ledge. Have your belayer watch where the rope runs - it is easy get burnt from a fall onto the rope. After that move you're home free. Two lines of bolts follow huecos up the wall. Not sure which is which - we did the left route. As per Bob D (and I concur), the hueco portion of the route is 5.9.

Protection

6 bolts + anchors.
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This is a super-cool moderate route that I'd suggest for just about anyone. The first part up to the ledge is a little funky, but the huecos above are out of this world. Dec 9, 2001
Yes, according to the guide the leftmost hueco line is 'Tanks for the Hueco' and the line on the right is also in the guide. I forget the name, but it is 11b, mostly because it is gradually overhung compared to Tanks. Very fun, do it. Jul 3, 2002
A fun variation for the very beginning is to take the fun hand crack to the right, then a funky move left onto the ledge and the first bolt. Jul 22, 2002
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
Great climb. The crux was 10d and hard for me. The top of climb is great. It reminds me of the second pitch headwall on Sea of Holes at Hueco Tanks. Jul 3, 2003
Well after the 5.11 start, excelent textbook hueco moves up and left, remember your sun glasses around the third or fourth bolt, or as soon as your heads sticks out past the side, I was partially blinded about 11 or so, great moves however it was hard to see them at first, chains in reach while on the face. Penitente Classic. Jul 16, 2003
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Is the start of this climb always wet? In the Colorado Climbing Guide, it suggests that the start is wet but locals told us that it does dry out. The upper section of the route looked YUMMY but the water kept us off. When is optimal climbing time for this route? Sep 2, 2003
The start of the route is usually wet after rain, even days later. And in the springtime. If it is wet, I recommend just aiding that move by stepping in a sling. The lower part of the route is out of character with the upper hueco section, so just grab through unless the redpoint means that much to you! Oct 8, 2003
Blake Collins
  5.11a
Blake Collins  
  5.11a
My favorite route in the canyon, the start isn't bad in dry conditions, once above the first bolt it is text-book hueco moves to the top, on a sunny day sunglasses or a hat is helpful when moving out left from the shady corner start. The sun has been known to blind on this climb. Jan 1, 2004
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
  5.10c
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
  5.10c
I love this route. With Tanks and Bullet, this is the most fun and most aesthetic formation in southern Colorado. Apr 28, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Superb climb! Just after the first bolt is pretty cruxy and a challenging section to onsight. After that it turns to super-juggy 5.9 buckets. A must do! Jul 2, 2007
Aeon Aki    
 
After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt. I guess the idea was that if you can pull 5.10+ lie-backing, an easy runout after that is no problem. Still, shit happens and this runout is completely unnecessary. Be prepared, especially if you pull through the crux as suggested above. Apr 28, 2008
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10d
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10d
I second Aki's comments regarding the runout and caution about Brown's variation above- if you try that and blow it you are through. I saw one person shake their way through that option, and it was scary to watch! Made more so by an unattentive belayer- you definitely want an attentive belayer on the crux which, while out of character for the rest of the route is a really fun problem! May 25, 2008
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.10c
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
  5.10c
After the 10+ lieback at the beginning, there isn't a section of 5.10 climbing. Just some really sweet and pumpy 5.9 jug hauling! Really sweet if you're into doing pullups on big holds. Easier than some 10b's in the canyon I thought.... Sep 7, 2009
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10d
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10d
I would first like to start off by saying this is THE ROUTE for a 10 climber in the canyon, absolutely stellar! However, I must admit that I wish I had read these comments before climbing this line. The 2nd bolt placement is in major groundfall terrain if you blow it. Yes, the climbing is easy but I recently took a nice 15 footer due to a hold breaking so with this in mind I was terrified. I'm glad I did this route but the run in out of character with the canyon and unnecessary in my opinion. May 23, 2010
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.10d
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.10d
I personally think this is a really good onsight. The crux is textbook, but it's not as good as a crack as it looks. It's 10+. The huecos up top are easy and SWEET, but I got a bit of a pump. Get on it.

I think it deserves an R rating. Getting to the first bolt is interesting in itself but not bad. But if you blew the second clip, that's a ground fall and big drop. It's on easy ground without a doubt. Don't let it discourage you, because this route is amazing! Oct 11, 2010
Very strange that you have to make a scary run to 2nd bolt, but the last bolt is about a foot away from the anchors. Feb 22, 2012
Mike Howard    
 
Anchor Replacement, modernization: "After gaining the ledge, you are risking groundfall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary." Fixed 4/29/2012 with Bob D. and Tim Standing. Replaced SMC spinners with 28kN hangers. Come help more on Anchor Replacement Weekend 5/12-13/2012. New sport anchor with Mussy Hooks, so please do not top rope through hooks, use you draws and last climber rap or is lowered. Apr 29, 2012
Larry Rossi
Colorado Springs
Larry Rossi   Colorado Springs
Mike Howard, I don't see any change that eliminates the groundfall potential above the ledge. A new first bolt was added down low, which is nice, but the groundfall potential is above the ledge, above what's now the second bolt. That's unchanged unless I missed a bolt. It is very easy terrain, so no big deal, but people should be aware. Apr 15, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
IMO...if you blow the clip...then... it's pretty easy there...come on now, do we need even MORE bolts in Peni? Apr 15, 2014
Scheid
Vail, CO
 
Scheid   Vail, CO
 
Why all the whining about the bolt above the ledge? I think it was fine and on very easy ground. I'm sure you could place gear in some huecos if you really wanted to. Sep 1, 2014
rojasx53
  5.10d
rojasx53  
  5.10d
Pure glory. The 10d is getting up the first ledge. The rest is 5.9 romping. In 2015, I lead this thing while the layback crack was gushing a steady stream from recent precipitation. If you wander up to this thing and it's seeping, don't be deterred - get on it!!! May 27, 2017