Type: Sport
FA: McLaughlin, 1988
Page Views: 3,223 total · 16/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Just before the second large drainage system entering the canyon from the right is a low angle slab with four good warm-up routes. Jewel of the Mild is the left of these and is arguably the best of the four. Run up on thin, shallow pockets and frictional slabbing to an edgy crux near the top. The lead can feel a bit spicy, so it is best to be comfortable at the grade. The climbing is in the sun most of the day; the stone is solid, and the climbing is interesting. The four lines in this sector are usually occupied, so arrive early or grab a number and wait in line.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Nice thin face climb. A little harder than nearby Children of a Lesser Grade (10c) but not as thin as Looney Tunes (10b/c). Long way to first bolt. Aug 14, 2004
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Definitely a long way to the first bolt - well worth it though. Excellent. Mar 18, 2011
NEH
  5.10c PG13
NEH  
  5.10c PG13
One of the best 5.10s in the canyon. That first bolt is darn high, though! If you're not super comfortable on mid 5.10 slab, a thick crash pad or a very long stick clip is helpful for some piece of mind. Mar 29, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10b/c
Great climb, Kev! If you're a little squimish about the high first bolt (even if your not), a bomber nut can be placed before committing to the face. Apr 17, 2011
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
 
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
 
You can also use a Black Diamond green C3 00 in the crack, just to the left of the beginning of the climb. This is an incredible climb. Sep 4, 2011
1st bolt is stupid high, I scare my belayer every time I start up this majestic slab. Oh yeah, and this route puts Children of a Lesser Grade to shame. Feb 10, 2012
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
A low first bolt must have been added sometime between these comments. No groundfall potential anymore. Jun 30, 2015