Type: Sport
FA: D'Antonio and Milligan, 1986
Page Views: 17,108 total · 82/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


236 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

D'Antonio and associates really scored some classic lines in this little sector of the San Luis Valley. Bullet The Blue Sky forms the edge of a large, left-facing dihedral and Not My Cross chases up the perfect, brilliant dihedral in the corner. A bouldery start gains a good stance that lets you kick into the dihedral. Superb stone, killer strenuous stemming, and good pro add up to a Penitente classic. This route would be a star in just about any corner of the universe; it is an excellent addition.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
[Definitely] the most spectacular dihedral sport pitch I've ever been on. The clipping stances for the first two bolts aren't great, but keep your head together and it's not bad. The dihedral has to be seen to be believed- it's just so clean and smooth. Penitente at its best if you ask me. Nov 27, 2001
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
 
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
 
Have faith in the stem but don't look to the virgin for much help... Jul 8, 2002
Great route - has just enough hands, the only route that I almost let go on because of the burning pain in the calves, and no respite at the top. Nov 1, 2002
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Wow. Spectacular route! Classic stemming.... This dihedral and the arete of Bullet are the most striking features in Penitente! Solid 5.11 the whole way. Apr 18, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Classic stem corner on a beautiful wall. A must if in the area. Jan 25, 2006
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.11a/b
Very cool climb. I agree challenging first two clips. Once you find a rhythm stick with it!!! Sep 18, 2006
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.11a/b
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.11a/b
An amazing line! Beautiful dihedral with just barely enough feature for your fingers every now and then. A good workout for the calves. Jul 2, 2007
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Like watching paint dry (works best in HQ) Apr 24, 2009
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
 
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
 
Dude! I think you have the speed record for NMCTB!
Actually - I was expecting the sun to set before you got to the anchors, which BTW you didnt clip! No send for you!!! Apr 24, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Probably bc I ran out of chalk. Apr 24, 2009
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.11b
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.11b
I cannot get over this climb! Absolutely Stellar! Made the long drive worth it.

It's sustained. There is really no rests or footholds or handholds. Calfs hurt after this one. Every move is stellar. Best Sport Stem pitch ive done! Oct 11, 2010
NEH
  5.11b
NEH  
  5.11b
This is a fantastic route!!Maybe its the style, but this route seems a bit harder than most of the other 11b's in the canyon. Dec 23, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Have you tried Brown Sugar yet? Dec 24, 2010
NEH
  5.11b
NEH  
  5.11b
I climbed Brown Sugar earlier this fall and really enjoyed the route. The start moves were stout, but then it wasn't too bad to the top. Not My Cross seemed much more sustained all the way to the anchors. Dec 26, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11b
Lol, that video is hilarious, Darren! That's about how I felt while climbing this thing, you're not alone! Apr 21, 2011
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Even if this was the only route I had done in Penitente, it would have been worth the drive just to do it. My first try on it was at the end of a long day with direct sun, and it got the best of me with two falls. I had underestimated it. The next morning I came back and hit it up first thing in the shade and cruised it. WoW! I love this route, it may be the best of its grade that I have done. I think this would be a fun one to try and downclimb. Apr 29, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
I don't give out many 4 star classics...but this one, YES. So, so good. I think 11b...definitely stacked the entire way on the most beautiful dihedral. I was lucky enough to get the onsight (which as a figghhttt!) and will absolutely go back just for this. So good. Do it. Mar 27, 2014
Lizzzz  
Not a good warmup! We thought this was going to be like a 9 from looking at it... nope... thin, technical, 11a/b dihedral climbing. Oct 11, 2015