Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Elison, Mark McLauchlan, Stephanie Hilwig
Page Views: 1,504 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mort on Nov 26, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Start the same as "Unknown 5.10a". This is the second route left of Jewel of the Mild. Step right into lieback flake. The crux is at the vertical arete or the first move into the lieback depending on how low you move right. This warmup has actual holds!

Location

Start same as "Unknown 5.10a". It is the second route left of Jewel of the Mild. It shares an anchor with the two routes to the left.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Ben D.
Colorado
  5.10a
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.10a
Really fun climb that felt harder than "Unknown 10a" to the left of it. While I think the original route was intended to be a left-leaning lieback in the lower flake, you can also climb this as a right-leaning "crack climb" with perfect foot and hand jams. If you climb it this way, you can sew up the flake with some #0.75-2 Camalots after clipping the first bolt. Also, there is a variation to the start where you climb it directly under the first bolt with some awkward underclings and sidepulls to get started (avoiding the "Unknown 10a" start). If you start it this way, it probably goes at 5.10b. Oct 30, 2015