Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Sam Mills, 4/88
Page Views: 289 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

This is a great trad route, but have your S together before you go for the lead. It is mostly slab moves, protected with gear.

Location

This lies among the popular slab routes at the end of the main canyon.

Protection

Thin gear.

Photos

Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
We top roped this climb from Children since we didn't have any trad gear. Tricky start and finish Oct 22, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10+
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10+
This is the thin seam between Jewel of the Mild and Children of a Lesser Grade and can be TRed from Children's anchors which is what most people do. Personally, I thought the start was way harder than 10b. Maybe something important broke off? Sep 27, 2008
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c R
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c R
Beta spray warning: The crux at the bottom is very difficult for 10+, but then after about 10 ft, it is maybe 9- climbing to the anchors. The top protection is far from great. After the pod at mid route that will take an ok cam, all I found was very small but textbook RP placement and then a terrible mid-sized stopper for 2nd half of the route. I would suggest hopeful on-sighters be solid at scary 5.9 slab. May 15, 2012
Kenan
  5.11a R
Kenan  
  5.11a R
I agree with a previous comment that something must have broken off if this was once a 5.10 start. The start is quite bouldery and requires technical stemming out on thin pebbles to reach the left hand hold. Then pulling over the bulge and getting the right-hand gaston is also no gimme. Solid 5.11 start. The 10c to the left (Children of a Lesser Grade) is much easier.

Also note this is definitely an R-rated climb if you lead it on gear. There are maybe 2-3 placements in the middle of the climb and that's it! Nov 27, 2012