Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 700 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Jul 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Halfway between Captain America and the Bullet the Blue Sky area is an orange face above a rounded ledge. The first move is a really long reach to a large pocket and the first bolt. If you can't reach the pocket, consider aiding up, since the best climbing is above on the face. Continue up to the ledge and head up the face on pockets and jugs to a final difficult overhang and the top.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11d
Tough to get established on the rock followed by a way reachy move to the good pocket. I didn't like the ledgy fall potential going to the third bolt. Felt tougher than 11c but maybe just because my finger tips were pretty chewed up by the time I got on it. Anchors over the top are a bit awkward to get to and clean. May 2, 2009
Aaron D
Salida, CO
 
Aaron D   Salida, CO
 
This climb is sweet. The first move is reachy, but super fun. The rest has something for everyone. Definitely worth it. Jul 22, 2010
rojasx53
  5.11+
rojasx53  
  5.11+
Sick!!! This thing does not get the traffic it deserves. The opening move is something you would find in a bouldering gym - I had to catch the pocket dynamically as my arms are far from long enough. The rest is spicy! Cowboy bolts made DIY from ancient angle iron. The jug rest towards the top feels sketchy. These factors are part of what made it so fun but also why it only gets 3 stars. Classic Penitente. May 27, 2017