Type: Sport
FA: see guidebook
Page Views: 1,208 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

The guide sums this one up pretty good. A decent warm up, but only because it gets early sun. Sharp for the grade. Ow!

Location

This is at the end of the main canyon, left of Brown Sugar.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

N. Guimond
  5.11a/b
N. Guimond  
  5.11a/b
We determined that the whole Brown Sugar wall needs to be renamed to include "sandbagged" in there somewhere. Holy moly, I never thought I'd have to work for 15 minutes to START a 5.10. May 29, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.11a
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.11a
I have to agree, getting off the ground is tricky as is the friction for the first 2 bolts. Not a destination route but worth doing if you are in the area I guess. May 25, 2008
Robby Cribbs
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Robby Cribbs   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
If you like to boulder, this is for you. All the moves are very bouldery and involve both power and technique. Oh, and yes it's sharp. Jun 18, 2009
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I don't agree that this climb is any harder than a 10+ if you climb slab, but...it is sharp and the holds are small. The only thing keeping this at a 10 is the pitch of the rock. Oct 5, 2009
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
If this is a 10, it is by far the stiffest 10 in the canyon. The bulge was the crux for me, not the slab bottom. Maybe it's very height-dependent, but I had to hang on the last bolt. Then I walked over and easily sent Brown Sugar. I agree with the previous comment about this entire wall being sandbagged. Aug 9, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.10c/d
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.10c/d
That was honestly the hardest 10b I've ever climbed. The beginning is definitely the hardest part of the climb. I would say 10c - 10d at the hardest though. I've also climbed the other 10c's Jewel of the Mild, and Children of a Lesser Grade, and this is by far the hardest. The top is very easy just the bottom is difficult. Maybe just for short people. Sep 5, 2011
William Mondragon  
  5.10b
Hmm. Well this whole wall kinda sucks. Oct 14, 2012
Sarah McFadden
Boulder, CO
 
Sarah McFadden   Boulder, CO
 
Wondering if anyone has noticed if the roof/bulge has broken holds lately? Agree with the above definitely felt hard/iffy, but being a 5'4 climber the roof sequence was IMPOSSIBLE. Oct 15, 2012