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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,689 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

Pumping Huecos is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall. I felt it was soft for the grade and would recommend this to someone climbing 5.10. It probably has the best movement of any climb on this wall with a cruxy lie-back type move low down and then a pull over a slight bulge near the anchors.

Protection

1/2 dozen [4] bolts or so + anchors.

Per Noah McKelvin: there is a missing hanger.

Photos

Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10c
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10c
Missing hanger on 4th bolt replaced 4/5/15. Route is 4 bolts plus anchors. Apr 5, 2015
As of 9/1/12, the last bolt was still missing a hanger. The stud is long enough to use a wired nut as a hanger though, if you "must" do this route. Sep 3, 2012
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.10c
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.10c
Who took the freakin' hanger off?

Pisses me off when someone does that.

Climb is soft for the grade. Definitely not a .11a in this canyon. Still sweet, though! I didn't notice the hanger was missing until I was there. Had to run it out. Oct 11, 2010
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Yeah, I was confused by the guide book as to which climb this is. I did the one on the right with two little bulges and thought it was 10c for the move at the top one. The hanger is still missing for the crux. WTF, who would do that! Jun 14, 2009
Per Magnelind
Los Alamos, NM
Per Magnelind   Los Alamos, NM
The hanger at the third bolt is missing. Jul 7, 2008
tim naylor
  5.10c
tim naylor  
  5.10c
One move wonder. Sep 13, 2007
I was pleasantly surprised to get a bit of jug hauling amidst all the pinche crimper routes at Penitente! I agree that the rating is soft, at least for anybody who's used to steep climbing. More like 10c. Then again, penitente route ratings in general tend to be all over the map. My only problem with the route, aside from wishing it were longer, is that the lower crux's bolt is immediately beneath a dish you have to use for a high heel hook. A fall here (though it's pretty juggy) would probably mean at least a ropeburn and possibly a backflip and a nasty knock on the head. May 25, 2004