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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos Rancheros) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Jay Fredinburg, 1992
Page Views: 8,663 total · 44/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

Follow the main drainage that enters the canyon from the right at Captain America. As the drainage narrows down, head for the huecoed wall at the end - this may entail scrambling around the streamlet that can run a bit of water in the spring. Excellent hueco climbing to a thin slab await. This line comes well recommended as a rationally bolted moderate on solid rock that provides a good a good introduction to pocket climbing.

Protection

A handful of draws and a rope.
James Oliver
Monte Vista, CO
James Oliver   Monte Vista, CO
WARNING: the first bolt is very loose. The head was already turning freely, and I was easily able to unscrew just a bit and pull the bolt all the way out of the hole with just my fingers, leaving the sleeve behind. I put it back in and tightened with fingers but didn't have a wrench handy to tighten more strongly.

The left anchor bolt on the top is a bit loose as well. The hanger moves, and I could move the head back and forth slightly.

Be careful out there! Don't blindly trust bolts! May 21, 2017
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.9- PG13
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.9- PG13
The crux was definitely the first move or two getting onto the route, but once you're on, wow! What a great climb! The first bolt IS a bit high as others have stated, but the holds are solid and the climbing obvious all the way up. Other than the committing first bolt, this is a good lead for those breaking into the 5.9 range. Once the rope is up, there is a fun 5.10a/b variation you can TR by climbing 3-4' to the right of the bolt line. Enjoy! Oct 30, 2015
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.9
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.9
All 3 lead bolts replaced 4/3/15. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware!!! Apr 5, 2015
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend). May 26, 2014
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Fun climb, surprisingly pumpy, although you have plenty of places to rest. I agree, what's up with the super high first bolt? The holds are decent for the start, except deciding which to use, climb purposefully until you get that bolt! Oct 15, 2012
Mike Smyth
Spartanburg, SC
 
Mike Smyth   Spartanburg, SC
 
That first bolt is still a ways up. I showed it some stick clip love. I would guess it's about 15-17' up to the first. It's doable on the lead, but stick clipping that first one sure does make you feel better about it. May 29, 2012
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9-
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Super fun route, each hold better than the last. I didn't find the upper slab 'thin' either - positive holds up there, too.

I followed the guidebook's suggestion of belaying from up top. The anchors are plenty beefy - it was just a fun walkoff in a cool setting. Sep 6, 2010
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Maybe a little soft for 5.9 (actually rated 5.8+ in the Colorado guidebook). But that first bolt is a very long ways up there and it is not a gimmee to get there. Very fun climb. Jun 14, 2009
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.9
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.9
One of the better 5.9 climbs in the canyon that, like most of them, was not bolted for a 5.9 leader. I guess it is incentive to step up to higher grades because 5.12 climbers on 5.12 climbs are apparently at greater risk than 5.9 climbers on 5.9 routes! May 25, 2008
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
I got a good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets). May 18, 2008
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Some pencil-dik stole one of the chains off this route. If you find this person, be sure to slash his tires for me! Oct 26, 2006
courtney.vogt
Denver, Colorado
courtney.vogt   Denver, Colorado
"Heads up" - I thought the first bolt was WAY up there. Still, a fun climb all the way up. Sep 18, 2006
Funny coincidence, I was just there this past weekend and we noticed an excellent bolted line on a cliff just behind the belay stance for HTWWW. It felt 11a-ish to me as well, with some nice powerful (relatively for penitente, at least) moves up two short steep faces, and a thin-feet diagonal rightward traverse connecting them. Recommended, but perhaps do two warmup laps on HTWWW before bearing down on this one's crimpers. Oh, and by the way, I thought HTWWW was an excellent warmup or easy-moderate lead (with stick clip for beginning leaders). Beautiful location, too, in a little winding side canyon with a porthole arch in the cliff above. May 25, 2004
Does anyone know route name & grade of route 10' to the south. .11a?ish. Mar 25, 2004
A bit sporty at the start without a stick clip. Mar 22, 2004
Ryan Olson  
 
I thought this was a great route and it was my first lead out side. The big incut huecos make it a great beginner climb. Nov 20, 2003
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
Nice climb but short. One of the few easier climbs at Penitente. Start is crux. Good warmup climb. Jul 3, 2003

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