Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Doug Ranck
Page Views: 2,241 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2003 with updates from AndyMac
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

[Hueco Mania] is immediately left of Pumping Huecos (which in turn is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall). Supposedly there is a 5.8 (Hueco Mania) to the left of this route but before Nueve a Seis, but I couldn't find it. The climbing is good, but not quite as good as Pumping Huecos or the fun roof moves of the climbs to the left.

Protection

1/2 dozen bolts or so + anchors.

Photos

shad O'Neel
  5.9+
shad O'Neel  
  5.9+
Easy 5.10 climbing, one move wonder but damn fine huecos. Sep 9, 2004
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
  5.9
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
  5.9
I think Christa is actually climbing Pumping Hueco's in the photo below... Sep 23, 2004
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
D'Antonio's book mentions 6 bolted routes on the Hueco Wall, but we could only find 5. He rates Pumping Huecos as a 5.11 and climbingboulder.com rates it as a 5.11a. There's no way the climb that we were on is a 5.11a. It felt more a like a one-move 5.10b/c as Shad had mentioned. The climb just to the left of where we were climbing felt like a 5.8/5.9 and we figured that was Hueco Mania. So, we concluded that Pumping Huecos must have been farther to the right and we just didn't see it. Maybe D'Antonio or Ranck could clear this up one of these days as they did the first ascents on the Hueco Wall. Oct 3, 2004
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Fun Climb and rewarding view of the valley from the top. Slightly pumpy climb on sharp rock. The question is not where are the holds but more of which holds work for you? I agree with Brenda. We could not find the 6th climb on this wall. Thinking that pumping Huecos is the next left climb but MP says it is Nueve. Can someone confirm this?

Best to rap down. Sep 18, 2006
AndyMac
Center, CO
5.8
AndyMac   Center, CO
5.8
9+ to 10c!! This IS Hueco Mania, given 5.8 in the guidebook.
The routes from left to right are:
El Dedo Es La Llave (5.10)
Ranck E (5.10b or -)
Nueve a Seis (5.9 or 9+)
Hueco Mania (5.8)
Huecos Rancheros and Pumping Huecos are the same route (~10c) Mar 29, 2008