Penitente Canyon Rock Climbing

Penitente Canyon is a beautiful, small canyon on BLM lands located in the San Luis Valley - south central Colorado. The area is primarily a sport climbing destination with a few trad lines. The bouldering opportunities here are (I think) mostly undeveloped but almost limitless.

As per D'Antonio's guidebook (Falcon Publishing - Rock Climbing the San Luis Valley), the rock is a volcanic Fish Canyon welded tuff. This translates into bulletproof rock with great friction. Many climbs utilize small crimps and edges, while others scale hueco-ridden walls. The trad lines follow rough cracks - bring plenty of tape.

From my experience, all bolted lines are well done, with good hardware and placements providing well-protected routes. The majority of routes are .10 & above, with very few moderates. With the excellent bolted protection, however, this is a nice place to push the grades.

Camping is on site, costs a nominal amount (the guidebook says it is free - this has changed!), and has standard BLM regulations. Per Jesse Morehouse: as of 2012, the site fee for single site is now $11 and the group rate is $20 with 3 group sites now. Water is provided down the road from the climbing / camping area (another recent development - follow the signs), and the nearest 'goods' can be found at the 'La Garita Cash Store'.

Please note that there are several distinct climbing areas other than Penitente Canyon, including the Rock Garden, Witches Canyon, and others. Some of these are on or near private property, so be sure to watch for & obey the signs.

I am tying not to ramble, but this place just rocks!!! - fun, fun, and a bit more fun.

Eds. Note, BLM Law Enforcement Ranger hand out $50 citations to people who had occupied a campsite without filling out the form and submitting the money, even at night!