Penitente Canyon Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.843, -106.285 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Rog on Nov 6, 2001|
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
History (Admin Only): Leo Paik edited this area Sep 13, 2019 View all 3
Leo Paik handled an improvement for this area Sep 13, 2019
Monty edited this area Oct 15, 2019
As per D'Antonio's guidebook (Falcon - Rock Climbing the San Luis Valley), the rock is a volcanic tuft. This translates into bullet proof rock with great friction. Many climbs utilize small crimps and edges, while others scale hueco - ridden walls. The trad lines follow rough cracks - bring plenty of tape.
From my experience, all bolted lines are well done, with good hardware and placements providing well protected routes. The majority of routes are .10 & above, with very few moderates. With the excellent bolted protection, however, this is a nice place to push the grades.
Camping is on site, costs a nominal amount (the guidebook says it is free - this has changed!), and has standard BLM regulations. Per Jesse Morehouse: as of 2012, the site fee for single site is now $11 and the group rate is $20 with 3 group sites now. Water is provided down the road from the climbing / camping area (another recent development - follow the signs), and the nearest 'goods' can be found at the 'La Garita Cash Store'.
Please note that there are several distinct climbing areas other than Penitente Canyon, including the Rock Garden, Witches Canyon, and others. Some of these are on or near private property, so be sure to watch for & obey the signs.
Trying not to ramble, but this place just rocks!!! Fun, fun, and a bit more fun.
Eds. Note, BLM Law Enforcement Ranger hand out $50 citations to people who had occupied a campsite without filling out the form and submitting the money. Even at night!
Sept. 13-15, 2019 limited access - see the popup for details!
Classic Climbing Routes at Penitente Canyon
Days w Precip