Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mike McGill, 1990
Page Views: 1,046 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed October 11th-14th, 2018 Details

Description

Holy cow I've wanted to do this route forever! It looks so mysterious and intruiging. There's no foreplay on this route, you get down to business right at the ground. Definitely bring a stick clip, or a crash pad. I thought the first move was pretty tough...probably in the V5-6 range. It took me many tries to stick the dyno to the big pocket. After that a few tough, but not desperate moves keep you nervous until you pull over onto the slab. The topout has some loose rock, so make sure your belayer is paying attention.

The mid-way slab is the only thing keeping this route from four-star-euphoria.

Location

It is in the side canyon that breaks right before the Virgin painting. This is the middle of three routes on the left side of the side canyon across from How the West Was Won.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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fubar
Babylon
  5.12a
fubar   Babylon
  5.12a
I remember this being rated 12a in the guidebook, and feeling soft at that.... Mar 9, 2011
NEH
NEH  
Bob D'Antonio's book has this rated 12b/c. There is a 12a to the left of this route, No Intent. The start moves to this one shut me down and felt like hard 5.12 (at least at 5'6"). Apr 11, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.12b
Luke Childers  
  5.12b
Got this one insight years ago and enjoyed the big move! Ended quickly but still worth doing!! But no way is it 12D. I think 12- would be fair. It's a boulder problem to a slab. Still work the time however. Apr 21, 2012