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El Dedo Es la Llave

5.10, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 1.9 from 31 votes
FA: Doug Ranck
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon


El Dedo Es la Llave is the left-most climb on the Hueco Wall and tackles the roof at its steepest point. The route requires a long reach from one very good under-cling hueco to another, and my (5'4") partner had a slightly harder time than I did, but the holds over the roof are very big and make this a fun (but short) route.


2 or 3 bolts + anchors.

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El Dedo es la Llave.
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[Hide Comment] I think this is the LEFTMOST line on this wall. May 31, 2004
Ben Burnett
[Hide Comment] LEFTMOST - The first bolt is very high, especially given that you would fall down the slab below the route as well, but the moves are easy getting to it (5.7 R, maybe). It's rare to get a roof that is this easy and that big.
Led this yesterday with a #2 Camalot in a pocket below the first bolt - before it becomes overhanging. May 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] Best on the wall if its the .10a I'm thinking of (the furthest left route). Feb 10, 2012
[Hide Comment] Just two bolts on this climb, but that's all you need. After you pull the roof, it's all over. Jun 29, 2015