PRINT: Rock Climb Anatomy 101, San Luis Valley

Anatomy 101

5.8+, Sport,

Avg: 2.1 from 9 votes
FA: Alex Colville
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021 Details

Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.

Description

Anatom is located aproximately 200 meters above the Hueco Wall, on the new trail to Witches Canyon. Two cams are often used to reach the first bolt, it is an easy stick clip from the rock the belayer can sit on. The first 20 feet (where the cams would be used) has a nice crack for gear placement. The upper portion is moderate Penitente face rock with small edges and a few huecos to good easy anchors.

Protection

Two medium-sized cams may be used to reach the first bolt. From there on up, it is well-bolted by six bolts to coldshut anchors. To toprope this climb, I advise using a rope around a small cedar to get to the anchors.

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A single #3 Camalot in the crack should suffice. There are 4 more routes to the left. The farthest left has some hollow holds to get to the first bolt and probably goes at 5.9.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kaelen Willaims

The first time I went to Penitente a few years ago, I was lucky enough to run into Alex Colville, who showed my around the canyon. He put the route up after the bolting ban, and he said it was 5.8, which I think is about right. Apr 15, 2007

Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM

5.8

I don't lead 5.10 and had no problem setting this up. It goes 5.8. Great route with an obvious mantle move above the high first bolt. Rightmost route on the wall. Jun 9, 2009

Steven Reneau

5.8

5 bolts.
There are 4 unknown routes between Hueco Wall and here, and 3 more immediately left. Jul 8, 2018