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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Carson, Laeger & Paul (1982)
Page Views: 973 total · 9/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Known primarily for a novel "slab-dyno" past the first bolt, this route provides some tough slab smearing to a moderate yet exciting finish. The first crux is, as mentioned, a bizarre leap to a good crimp. The guidebook refers to the move as "The Boing", and rightly so: there seems to be no other option than to spring, jump, or otherwise lunge to the next hold, which is decidedly awkward on a thin climb such as this. Afterward, engaging face climbing leads to a good ledge, then a moderate runout to a two-bolt rap anchor.

You can top-rope this route with a 60 meter rope.

Location

Located about 60 feet to the right of The Last Dihedral.

Protection

Four bolts. The top is a bit runout, but the climbing remains moderate to easy in difficulty.

Photos

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Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
The "Boing" isn't absolutely necessary. Static moves at about 12a gets you by the crux.

This is a good warm up for the really good climbs on this side of Dome. Mar 26, 2011
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
The line of bolts that angles right along the dyke and joins Just Barely at top is called Just Lovely. In my opinion, three stars and more quality than JB, which, as the description implies, is a one-move kind of deal. Mar 1, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Three more pitches (5.7, 5.9, easy fifth) will deposit you on the top of the Dome. Sep 30, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Once I figured out that you HAD to dyno past the first bolt, I laughed so hard that I had to come down and try the climb all over again. This pitch is truly unique. Sep 29, 2008

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