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Areas in Wonderland South

Central Wonderland 51 / 6 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 61
Far East 16 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Near East 28 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
South Wonderland Approach 24 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Wonderland Valley 95 / 13 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 120

Description

The Wonderland of Rocks (aka The Wanderland) is well named due to the mind boggling amount of rock there as well as the complex topography. If you're tired of waiting in line for another route or simply wish to escape the scene this is the place to seek out.

Getting There

The Wonderland of Rocks is located just north and east of the Barker Dam Area. Refer to the individual crag pages for more detailed approach information.

Andrew Gram adds: Head right at Echo Rock as if going to Barker Dam. Instead of pulling in to the Barker Dam trailhead, turn right onto a dirt road going to the Desert Queen Mine. Turn left onto another dirt road and there is a small parking area with an outhouse. It is also a short hike from Barker Dam through a wash to get to the same point.

267 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 395
Mental Physics
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Hex Marks the Poot
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 143
Breakfast of Champions
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 123
Dazed and Confused
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
My Laundry
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 106
High Strung
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Dangling Woo Li Master
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Caught Inside on a Big Set
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 137
Solid Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 147
Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on…
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 21
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Piggle Pugg
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 24
Such a Savage
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Black President
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mental Physics Wonderland Valley > W Wonderland Va… > Lenticular Dome
 395
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Hex Marks the Poot Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - E Face
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Breakfast of Champions Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
 143
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Dazed and Confused Wonderland Valley > W Wonderland Va… > Lenticular Dome
 123
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
My Laundry Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
High Strung Wonderland Valley > W Wonderland Va… > Foolproof Tower
 106
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dangling Woo Li Master Central Wonderland > Diarrhea Dome > Bighorn Mating Grotto
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Caught Inside on a Big Set Central Wonderland > Diarrhea Dome > Bighorn Mating Grotto
 53
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Solid Gold Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
 137
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Figures on a Landscape (aka… Wonderland Valley > … > N Astro Dome > N Astro Dome - Northe…
 147
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches
Sanctuary (aka Book of Chan… Central Wonderland > Diarrhea Dome > Bighorn Mating Grotto
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
I Can't Believe It's a Girdle Wonderland Valley > E Wonderland Va… > Freak Brothers Dome
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 4 pitches
Piggle Pugg Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Such a Savage Wonderland Valley > … > S Astro Dome > S Astro Dome - Northe…
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Black President Central Wonderland > Elephant Arches
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wonderland South »

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Can anyone tell me the best way (or a way) to get to the Lost in the Wonderland Slab? I made it to Bighorn Dome and took a left along Boulder Canyon thinking that I could hit the slab from the west. Not such a good idea for those of you considering it. Feb 5, 2005
C Miller   CA  
There are two main ways to get to the Lost In The Wonderland Slab, but going through the aptly named Boulder Canyon is not one of them...unless you happen to be a Bighorn Sheep.

The first approach is to cut right past the Freak Brothers Dome (heading east), past the north side of the Pea Brain and Red Obelisk until you enter a large open valley. Continue heading east/northeast (you'll be facing the distant flanks of Queen Mtn.) along the Wonderland Wash, passing the entrance to Boulder Canyon, past a huge landmark boulder (with a former Leavitt project) on your left until you have to make your way through some rocks and join another wash coming in from the south. The wash turns left and heads northeast here (along the base of Queen Mtn.), and soon you'll see the Don Genaro Cliffs and Don Genaro Boulder on your right. Make a left (heading west) when you reach the Cornerstone and follow a major wash past The Poodle Smasher until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your left. Plan on at least a solid hour of hiking for the approach.

Another approach is to head north in the Wonderland Valley past the Freak Brothers Dome. Continue along the wash in a northerly direction past the Duckwaddle Domes, Gumby Dome, and Diarrhea Dome (with the prominent Owl Pinnacle atop it). Once past the turnoff for Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Mating Grotto continue on past the Mystic Cove, scramble over a rough section and hit a wash heading east. Follow this until the Lost In The Wonderland Slab comes into view on your right. Again, plan on at least an hour of solid hiking to reach this point.

It's possible combine the two and make a giant loop hike, which will give you a grand tour of the southern Wonderland and blow your mind with the scenic beauty, solitude and amazing amount of rock in the area. Perfect for those cold, windy days when it's too cold to climb. Feb 6, 2005
I finally made it out to the Wonderland Slab and was dissapointed to see that Desert Delierium is dangerously runout with only one bolt (that I could see) between the ground and the left traversing roof. That bolt had webbing slings on it which lead me to believe that things get desparate up there. I'm sure a harder climber wouldn't hesitate. Oct 18, 2006
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
If you're heading into Wonderland Valley, the trail into the wonderland starts right behind Uncle Willie's Health Food Store. You simply take the trail toward Wall Street Mill (doesn't matter which parking area you use). Just a short distance past the unpaved parking area with an outhouse you'll see a wide trail heading north which is sort of blocked by park service-placed gargoyles. Take this trail to the readily visible ruins called Uncle Willie's Health Food Store.

Just to the west (left) of the ruins is a trail that drops into a wash that you can follow (on the trail) to the various formations, or just scramble around. There's a lot of fun stuff to do in here. Mar 2, 2010

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