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Areas in South Astro Dome

South Astro Dome - Southwest Face 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
South Astro Dome - East Face 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face 9 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 4,400 ft
GPS: 34.038, -116.147 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,896 total · 115/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

These awesome domes lie in the heart of the Wonderland of Rocks and sport some of the longest routes in the park. Classics include Solid Gold (10a) and Such a Savage (11a). The climbing is characterized by steep face climbing on small edges protected by bolts. Remember though, that these climbs were put up in the days of the bolt-on-lead ethic, and ARE NOT SPORT CLIMBS. Just because these routes aren't given an "R" (by tradition) doesn't mean you won't encounter significant runouts with dangerous fall potential: a small rack is usually useful to supplement the fixed gear on these routes. The majority of the routes on these domes face northeast and thus can be quite cold in the winter and see little sun. That being said a warm day in January brings ideal climbing conditions if you don't mind being a little chilly.

The South Astro Dome can be descended by 2 rappels from the top of My Laundry (one 60 ft and one 90 ft).

Getting There

Directions are difficult in the Wonderland. It is best to bring a good map to help locate the Astro Domes.

From the Barker Dam parking area, follow the trail north towards the Dam. When you reach the lakebed, continue north through the lakebed (if dry) or cross at the dam. Continue north through the Wonderland until you reach the enormous Don Juan Boulder. At this point veer towards the South Astro Dome and clamber up slabs to a notch which provides an excellent vantage point of the walls. Descend to the route of choice.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Astro Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Hex Marks the Poot
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 143
Breakfast of Champions
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
My Laundry
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 137
Solid Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
If You Really Loved Me, You'd Buy Me…
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Piggle Pugg
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 24
Such a Savage
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
 3
Shooting Star
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Middle Age Crisis
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Middle Age Crazy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hex Marks the Poot S Astro Dome - E Face
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Breakfast of Champions S Astro Dome - Northe…
 143
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
My Laundry S Astro Dome - Northe…
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Solid Gold S Astro Dome - Northe…
 137
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
If You Really Loved Me, You… S Astro Dome - E Face
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Piggle Pugg S Astro Dome - Northe…
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Such a Savage S Astro Dome - Northe…
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Shooting Star S Astro Dome - Northe…
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X Trad 2 pitches
Middle Age Crisis S Astro Dome - Northe…
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Middle Age Crazy S Astro Dome - Northe…
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Astro Dome »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
From the ASCA:"Strike It Rich" - All three protection bolts replaced. Note that instead of traversing way left to belay at the top of the first pitch, you can now traverse only about 10' right to get to the bolted belay of a new route to the right. Both pitches can be linked (just barely) with a 60m rope, but severe rope drag is a risk. ASCA 1/02 Jan 11, 2003

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