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Bighorn Mating Grotto Rock Climbing
Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Elevation: | 4,399 ft | 1,341 m |
| GPS: |
34.05146, -116.14733 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 18,453 total · 65/month | |
| Shared By: | Josh Beck on Dec 16, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Hidden an hour into the Wonderland is this small cove of rock with a handful of absolutely stellar moderate routes. A quartet of great 5.10 crack pitches, a short 5.9 offwidth, and a 5.11 thin crack/face problem are all great routes and this spot is very much worth the hike. The four "must-do" routes are Dangling Woo Li Master (5.10a), Book of Changes (5.10b), Caught Inside on a Big Set (5.10b) and Morning Thunder (5.10d).
Getting There
Walk north from Uncle Willie's parking area (just past Barker Dam parking on the remaining portion of the older dirt road). Walk past Fire Me A Burger Rock and Freak Brother's into north Wonderland Wash. Continue keeping west of Disneyland Dome and east of the Astro Domes out the north end of the wash and keep your eyes peeled for Diarrhea Dome. When you find it head for the west end of Diarrhea Dome and scramble up 3rd class-ish terrain (several possibilities) into the Grotto which is tucked in on it's west end.
Can be hard to find, use Vogel's maps and/or be familiar with the area. It takes 45 mins if you know where you're going, but can take a lot longer if you don't. It's a small/deep alcove with 100+ foot routes that's hard to see from a distance. If you hear people and you think you're close it's probably correct 'cause it's by far the most popular attraction in the area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bighorn Mating Grotto
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