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Foolproof Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Foolproof Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Animal Magnetism T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Autopilot TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Buford's House of Liver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	High Strung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rice Cake Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Robotic Surgery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Self-Driving Car T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Elevation:	4,400 ft	1,341 m
GPS:	34.0372, -116.14386 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,320 total · 60/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jan 11, 2004
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This "tower" so to speak is also more of a dome, and is nearly an extension of Fire Me A Fatburger Rock. The main buttress holds 5 routes and faces primarily East, getting morning sun. The routes there are both trad and sport, and range from 5.9 to 5.11. There is a fixed anchor at the top of Bufords/High Strung to belay and rap from. Since this rock lies within the 'Wanderland' (pun) of rocks, it is in a wilderness area and is not open to further bolting, but based on my experince there, that's no big loss. The face is exfoliating enough to prevent a truely high quality face line from being an option anyway.

The best routes here are probably High Strung (5.9) and Rice Cake Roof (10c).

Getting There

Hike into Wonderland (or 'wanderland' as I refer to it, for the potential to get lost) past Uncle Willie's, then pass Bankrupcy Wall and follow along the Fatburger rock on your left until the wash opens up. At that moment you look left and can see the Foolproof Tower nestled into the Fatburger Rock's NE corner. It is identified by the presence of two bolted lines and a cap roof near the top. A main buttress on the wall also has a strong dihedral on each it's left and right side.