Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D. Katz 1982
Page Views: 1,025 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


The east face of Foolproof Tower is capped by a roof which is split by several crack systems; this takes the left-hand crack over the largest section of roof.

Start on High Strung and climb to about the midway point then cut right and follow a low-angled ramp/corner system until under the roof. Lauch out the roof using good jams to a crux lip encounter high above the desert floor. Descend by circling around to rap anchors atop High Strung.

Although the crux is brief the moves and the setting make this a climb to seek out if climbing at the grade. Those seeking a more sustained route should climb the face route right of High Strung (Animal Magnestism, 5.11a) which leads more or less directly to the upper crack.


pro to 3"


Used big holds and no jamming required. Working the lip is comical from below, but you have to be there to understand. Mar 12, 2007
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
Hey Murf. I've been up to the roof 3 times now always escaping to the anchors on High Strung. What am I not seeing? I spent 10 minutes up there last time just trying to find a spot to jam or grab. Am I blind? The crack is sooo flaring. Any help would be great as I'm obsessed with getting this done. Thanks. Oct 4, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Jon;..the climb is very short, and bloody hard;....it's tricky too;....go for it!..... Oct 5, 2012
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
Just went back up there today. I must HAVE been blind. 2 huge holds under the roof lead to #2 hand jams over the lip. Don't know how I missed those holds the last 2 times. Dec 2, 2017