Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Foolproof Tower

Animal Magnetism T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buford's House of Liver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Strung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rice Cake Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Karen Wilson & Don Wilson, October 1988
Page Views: 1,171 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Thin edges, steep smears and balancy movement is the name of the game with this route that may be getting harder over time as some of the edges exfoliate. Two stars out of five.

Originally done with six bolts and a smattering of gear, this route was rebolted and the extra bolts added with the permission of the FA party to result in a fun and well-protected sport climb.

Location

The face/arete just left of High Strung, an obvious widening crack on the east face of Foolproof Tower.

Protection

9 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos

Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
There is a small runout above the 6th bolt as you gain the nice horn on the horizontal. Standing on the horn, you can clip the next bolt and you'll enjoy a few featureless but fun moves, while protected from the slab below. However, if you are shorter than 5'5", those moves will be desperate because the bolt can't be reached from the stance on the horn and a fall here would hurt. I stood on my tip toes, held my breath, and willed myself to be taller to just barely snag the bolt with the nose of my draw. I'm 5'5". Nov 28, 2016
Ben Folsom  
 
As of Dec. 2011 the edges seemed solid to me. Try Little Cottonwood sometime if you want to experience never ending exfoliation. Dec 31, 2011
Agree with Randy. I expected the route to ease up as the angle kicked back after the 4th bolt (which would indeed be hard to clip) but was wrong. Sustained, technical JTree slab climbing with big high steps on little edges in some spots and desperate smears in others higher up. All of the holds I used through the crux were solid. Definitely not a bomb and with the ample protection, it's well worth a shot if you're in the area. Nov 9, 2009
Murf
  5.11b/c
Murf  
  5.11b/c
Absolutely!! Definately no more than 5.9+. Jan 18, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Sandbags perhaps? Does this mean it's now rated 5.9+? Jan 18, 2009
Murf
  5.11b/c
Murf  
  5.11b/c
I noticed that all the grit that has fallen off this route is now contained in large bags at the base. Jan 18, 2009
Murf
  5.11b/c
Murf  
  5.11b/c
The major holds seem solid at this point. As Randy mentions, clipping the 4th bolt is difficult and may be the crux or the route. Mar 12, 2007
Randy
  5.11b/c
Randy  
  5.11b/c
We did it on a warm day and seemed pretty hard (past 3rd bolt). Hard to clip 4th bolt and moves past 8th bolt are 10d/11a. May 1, 2006
Lee Clark
  5.11b
Lee Clark  
  5.11b
Nice climb - well worth doing. The exfoliating flakes aren't really all that bad. Apr 10, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Funny, I added the Foolproof Tower with the intention of adding this and the other routes. Makes Run For Your Life/Runaway look easy and secure.
For my own part on this one, I was going to say it was a pile of crap with still exfoliating holds - this thing could go 5.13 some day. Maybe I got on it after a wet freeze-thaw cycle or something, but I snapped or gritted off both handholds and footholds. Hopefully my partner and I broke most of the crap off. Jan 13, 2004