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Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Spencer Lennard and Craig Fry, November 1977
Page Views: 4,125 total, 21/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Yet another of the classic face routes on the Astro Domes, this one is memorable for a stiff runout to the first bolt as well as the steep, well-protected face climbing higher.

P1) Climb about 20' of insecure 5.10 friction above the talus to a bolt, run it out again to a second bolt (this feels much easier) and continue to a ledge above which the wall steepens to vertical. Four more bolts along a bolt ladder (some clips are awkward) take you to a bolted belay.

P2) Leave the belay and climb featured vertical face with interesting moves past four bolts to the top and another bolted anchor.

Descend by walking off around the back or rapping down any of several routes (Breakfast Of Champions or Shooting Star).

Location

Starts 70' right of Solid Gold and 15' left of Breakfast of Champions (obvious flake/crack system) at a smooth apron of rock.

Protection

All bolts with bolted belays(3/8") Be aware that the start of the climb is very runout.

Photos

dhayan
Los Angeles, CA
dhayan   Los Angeles, CA
I think the way to go is to do this as one 180' pitch. Best single pitch I have done so far in the park! Nov 9, 2014
Muff  
Thanks for the clarification Randy! Mar 26, 2012
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
The Direct Start is actually the beginning of Middle Age Savage (which then climbs the crux of Such A Savage, before moving left and then up).

Climb an easy (and obvious) ramp up and left until you are below a small right facing corner/crack system. A bolt protects climbing up into the corner. You end up moving a bit right until you are on the ledge below the well bolted crux section of Such A Savage -- the original start comes in from the right to this point.

As a side note, the ramp is actually the start of Shooting Star (5.11a X) which was established well before Middle Age Savage, but from the end of the ramp that route continues up and left on the face.

Many people now choose to start Such A Savage via Middle Age Savage because it is easier and (most importantly) much better protected. Mar 26, 2012
Muff  
I am slightly confused as to this direct start. I have not yet done this route but I am just looking for clarification as to the direct start that "now exists". Was there some debris or talus that was cleaned that opened up a new line to the first bolt or is just that someone had yet to climb said line that now exists? Looking to jump on this thing pretty soon and looking forward to it! Mar 26, 2012
Murf  
Plus you'd have to get Hashbro to agree. Kinda a moot point, as there is a direct start now that will get to the crux much more reasonably bolted. Jan 31, 2011
The run out at the bottom was a mistake, and spurred on by people below saying "keep going"

Add a bolt, you have my permission Jan 30, 2011
Drewsky  
If you're comfortable on 5.10 friction, the runout will likely seem reasonable (it's probably on the easy end of 5.10). That said, the landing is terrible and a highly angulated ankle/leg fracture in the Wonderland would be a horrific ordeal. Use caution! Aug 10, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The newer route is called Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b). Mar 1, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Be sure to make a right at the fifth bolt on this route, as there is a newer line (.12c?) that continues straight up at this point and it is VERY easy to get suckered into following it. Apr 22, 2006
I recommend the start further left of the original line as it's more direct and much safer, the only difference is you miss out of some good runout friction climbing. Aug 29, 2004