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Routes in Lenticular Dome

Booglesby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dazed and Confused T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Wobler Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mental Physics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unconscious Obscenity S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bud Bruce, Brad Johnston, Mike Orr and Randy Vogel, January 1977
Page Views: 6,260 total · 38/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from Cindy Johnston
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb a steep slabby face with 4 bolts using smears and edges passing an optional bolted anchor and then continue past one more bolt to the top and another bolted anchor. To descend: either walk off down slabs on the northwest side of the formation (climber's left) or rap the route with a single 60M rope in two (2) raps. Make sure to use a 60 meter rope or longer!

Typically done as a single pitch route but it can also be done in two.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route lies just left of the classic Mental Physics on the west face of Lenticular Dome.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all bolts are 3/8")
another funroute. seems a little harder than 5.9 Nov 28, 2002
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9 R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9 R
Edgy first pitch and run-out second to a wonderful summit.

Unfortunately a lot of people seem to rap off after the first pitch, evidenced by a large number of slings which I once removed from the bolt anchor at pitch 1.

A worthy, albeit harder, companion to Mental Physics.

Position, character, location. Jan 7, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
As previously mentioned it is possible and even recommended to do this route in one pitch. There should not be any slings left behind as the anchors are all metal hardware. Jan 7, 2003
I've climbed this route a couple of times. It's a wonderful route; however, I'd rate it 10a. May 13, 2003
Bo Johnston
  5.10a
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a
I'd give the route a 5.10a. I remember it being quite a bit harder than the advertised 5.9. Maybe it is just the space between bolts. I think I only climbed the first pitch and came down. Feb 6, 2005
Jack_Thompson
  5.9
Jack_Thompson  
  5.9
I think the reason this climb feels harder than 5.9 to some is that (in my opinion) the difficulty stays pretty consistant in the first pitch right off the deck with potential for some nice size falls that someone climbing at or near their current limit will certainly take seriously. Becasue the moves are all there and solid, this factor should make the movement of this climb quite enjoyable for those who comfortably lead at this grade (at Josh) and add to the feeling of adventure for those pushing their limits. The route also rises steeply in an upper section (P1) setting it apart from many low angle slabs whos' sloping character can hide the exposure and the feeling of being runout--something I think very much adds to the route' Apr 18, 2005
Larry Stone
  5.9+
Larry Stone  
  5.9+
Great route.....clean rock and a fun safe lead..Fantastic day with JF and KF.... Oct 31, 2005
Bill Rusk
Duluth, MN
Bill Rusk   Duluth, MN
I loved this route. I just TRed the first pitch but the movements were so much fun once I figured them out. The crux seemed to be near the first bolt. Gotta trust the JTree friction. Jan 29, 2008
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
fairly runout, but not to hard for 5.9 Mar 23, 2010
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.9 R
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.9 R
Decided not to lead this one, as the first bolt is damn high over a bone breaking fall, 30 minutes from your car. On toprope, I found that the bolts are quite logically placed (just at the difficult parts) and that the climb is pretty cool.

Recommended if you have the balls. Dec 13, 2010
Indeed the first bolt is rather high. The rest of the climb doesn't kick back until the top and even then it's run out but easy. Many of the holds were ity bity but there. The combination of which makes this a fun climb indeed! Dec 16, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
This was a good warmup to get the footwork dialed. We were waiting on Mental Physics to open up. It was one where you steel yourself for the climb up to the next bolt once you gain the previous. Since the comparison comes up, this is definitely a 5.9 if Loose Lady is 5.10a. Jan 5, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Definitely one of the most sustained bolted 5.9s I've ever been on at J Tree. The bolts are FAR apart - Colonel Mustard's comment that clipping a bolt lets you mentally prepare yourself for the climb to the next one is ACCURATE! It's all there. Great stuff. Nov 22, 2012
Lisa J
  5.9+ R
Lisa J  
  5.9+ R
Wonderful route with lots of tiny edges.

First bolt is 25 feet up with some tough moves to get to it. Plenty of exposure and a bad place to fall. Might deserve an R rating for this and also for long runout. Dec 11, 2013
J--
Southern California
  5.9 R
J--   Southern California
  5.9 R
I just did this route Sunday 2/16/2014, this was my first successful lead of a 5.9 at J-tree. It took me two separate attempts. Very crimpy and yes start is 10m run out above a cactus that looks like it has been landed on more than a dozen times. Wow, I would give this climb four stars though. It is a must do if you are waiting for “Mental Physics” like we were. Feb 17, 2015
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
5.10- R
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
5.10- R
Getting to the first bolt was harder than it looked from below, but not overly difficult. Moves at 2nd bolt felt 10a but are well protected with the bolt right at your waist. The rest of the climb is sustained 5.9 with some pretty serious run out sections where a fall would result in a serious injury. Bolts are well placed though if you are feeling solid at the grade. If leading, do not pass up the second pitch. It is easier than the first with bigger holds, but technical enough to keep your attention. The "crux" on the second pitch if you even want to call it that is probably the short sequence just after the anchor which is protected by a third bolt above the anchor bolts to prevent a factor 2 on your belayer. The runout after the next bolt is on huge knobs and really easy climbing to the anchor. Bring a shoulder length sling for the 3rd bolt on pitch 1 to prevent rope drag. Dec 28, 2017
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
Trevor Roberson   Joshua Tree, California
Great route! I didn't find getting to the first bolt much of an issue but going to bolt two was thin and three was definitely a head game with thin edges, a weird pinch and an insecure smear here and there. Also one of the main hold just before bolt 3 flexes when you crimp it. If that thing pops off it would be a hell of a tumble. Apr 3, 2018
Greg Ross
San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.9+ R
Greg Ross   San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.9+ R
Heady to the first bolt. Very different style of climbing than what I was used to but full of what I came out to J-Tree for!
That 5th bolt does not exist. May 21, 2018

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