Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, November 1978
Page Views: 30,369 total · 133/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jan 3, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A very exciting and fun route and one of the best face climbs anywhere. Bring gear for the crack on the third pitch. There are just enough bolts to make the climbing sane, but a fall in a number of places could be bad news. Make sure both leader and follower are solid 5.10 climbers as the traverse at the end of pitch one is serious for both. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily linked and in fact recommended.

The route starts from atop a large boulder on the left side of the northeast face of the North Astro Dome.

P1) An incredible pitch!! Face climb up and right 30' to the first bolt (easy, but don't screw it up). From the bolt climb up and right to an insecure high-step move (crux, a fall could hurt) and continue up with sustained climbing past 5 more bolts (9+/10a). Traverse straight right for 30 feet past one set of anchors (don't belay here; it's an 80' rap to ground from here) and continue with wild climbing (5.10b with big swing potential) to another set of anchors (belay here; 95' rap to ground from here).

P2) Climb straight up past 1 bolt (5.9) to easier, but runout climbing. Belay at a ledge below the finishing corner or, better yet, link this pitch with the last pitch.

P3) Climb the left-facing dihedral to the top (5.9, gear necessary).

The descent options are thus:

1) Walk off (poor choice).

2) Rap off the left shoulder of North Astro Dome with one rope in two single raps. The first station is just down from the summit, and the second station is located slightly down and left from the first station. This series of raps will put you just up and left of your packs.

3) Rap off the South Astro Dome in two raps with one rope via the route Breakfast Of Champions.

Protection

Bolts and a small rack consisting of nuts and cams up to 3". Bring quickdraws and a few longer slings as well.

Photos