Description

The Lenticular Dome is a good looking piece of rock (as far as rocks go). Far and away the most sought-after route here is Mental Physics, which has been called the best 5.7 in the country. While I can't attest to that, it sure is a lot of fun! While you're waiting in line for Mental Physics, try Dazed And Confused, a 5.9 (R-) bolted face just a few feet to the left.

Getting There

From Barker Dam parking area, hike to the barker dam. From there, continue due north through the wash towards the Astro domes until you reach the Don Juan Boulder (a GIANT boulder in the middle of the wash). You will see the Astro Domes to the west (left). Just beyond, continue NW through a wash until directly under the Lenticular Dome, which will be on the right (north). Look for climbers' trail and scramble (3rd class) up to the base of the rock. Approach time - 60 minutes without getting lost.

One may also approach from "Uncle Willie's Health Food Store" (Vogel guide, p. 281). Don't get your hopes up - the "Store" consists of a concrete foundation and not much else. Head north past Ash Gordon and Bankrupt Wall to the Don Juan Boulder. Continue as above.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lenticular Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 422
Mental Physics
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Unconscious Obscenity
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 129
Dazed and Confused
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Hand Wobler Delight
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 8
Booglesby
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mental Physics
 422
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Unconscious Obscenity
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dazed and Confused
 129
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hand Wobler Delight
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Booglesby
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lenticular Dome »

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Mental Physics, especially the first pitch, is one of the best climbs I've ever done. Nov 28, 2002
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
The first pitch is about 32 meters long, which means that if you have a 60 meter rope you could rappel off if you were willing to down climb the last bit. We chose to do the second pitch, which Charlie Winger called "unaesthetic". It's actually an okay pitch, but one might find fault with the fact that the first and only bolt is a long way from the belay. The walk off is pretty straightforward and safe but rather tedious. May 26, 2008