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Routes in Lenticular Dome

Booglesby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dazed and Confused T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hand Wobler Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mental Physics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unconscious Obscenity S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 4,344 ft
GPS: 34.043, -116.149 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 19,229 total, 102/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Lenticular Dome is a good looking piece of rock (as far as rocks go). Far and away the most sought-after route here is Mental Physics, which has been called the best 5.7 in the country. While I can't attest to that, it sure is a lot of fun! While you're waiting in line for Mental Physics, try Dazed And Confused, a 5.9 (R-) bolted face just a few feet to the left.

Getting There

From Barker Dam parking area, hike due north until you reach the Don Juan Boulder (a GIANT boulder in the middle of the wash). You will see the Astro Domes to the west. Just beyond, continue NW through a wash until directly under the Lenticular Dome, which will be on the right (north). Look for climbers' trail and scramble (3rd class) up to the base of the rock. Approach time - 30 minutes.

One may also approach from "Uncle Willie's Health Food Store" (Vogel guide, p. 281). Don't get your hopes up - the "Store" consists of a concrete foundation and not much else. Head north past Ash Gordon and Bankrupt Wall to the Don Juan Boulder. Continue as above.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lenticular Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Jeff Hu  
I may have accidentally lost a canon 35mm f/2.0 lens at the base of Lenticular Dome. Please please do contact me if you find it, jeffhu7@gmail.com. Jan 13, 2017
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
The first pitch is about 32 meters long, which means that if you have a 60 meter rope you could rappel off if you were willing to down climb the last bit. We chose to do the second pitch, which Charlie Winger called "unaesthetic". It's actually an okay pitch, but one might find fault with the fact that the first and only bolt is a long way from the belay. The walk off is pretty straightforward and safe but rather tedious. May 26, 2008
Mental Physics, especially the first pitch, is one of the best climbs I've ever done. Nov 28, 2002

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