Mental Physics
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.5172, -119.81327 |
| FA: | Wendell "the Dean" Broussard and partners early 1970's |
| Page Views: | 68,977 total · 237/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Jul 3, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.
P1: Climb 100+ feet of sweet jamming to a bolt anchor (5.7, 105 feet).
P2: Face climb up and slightly left past one bolt to the top (5.7 PG13, 80 feet).
You can rap Dazed and Confused in two easy raps with a single 60m rope.
Curious about the name? It comes from Mentalphysics, which is a spiritual retreat center located on the western edge of Joshua Tree, right off Highway 62.



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