South Astro Dome - Northeast Face Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,485 ft | 1,367 m |
| GPS: |
34.03858, -116.14713 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 40,912 total · 200/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 27, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Northeast Face is literally packed with multi-star routes and as such is very popular with climbers throughout the season. The routes here range from 5.8+ to 5.13a (most are 5.10 and up) and vary from one to two pitches in length with mostly face climbs and the odd crack route. Descent is usually made via rappel from one of several anchors atop the formation.
Some of the better lines here include Breakfast of Champions (5.8+), Solid Gold (5.10a), Piggle Pugg (5.10c), Such a Savage (5.11a R), Stone Idol (5.12a R) and Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b).
Routes from left to right:
Mamunia (5.13a)
Stone Idol (5.12a R)
Bolt Heaven (aka Dry Cleaning) (5.10b A0)
My Laundry (5.9)
Crimping Lessons (5.11b)
Bleed Between the Lines (5.10d TR)
Solid Gold (5.10a)
Middle Age Crisis (5.11b)
Middle Age Crazy (5.11c/d)
Shooting Star (5.11a R/X)
Middle Age Savage (5.12a/b)
Such a Savage (5.11a R)
Such a Waste (5.11b/c TR)
Walking Pneumonia (5.11b R/X)
Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
The Boogie Woogie Blues (5.11c R)
Piggle Pugg (5.10c)
Classic Climbing Routes at South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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