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Middle Age Savage
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 7
votes
Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Boogie Woogie Blues, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breakfast of Pigs TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crimping Lessons S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mamunia S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Middle Age Crazy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Middle Age Savage T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Silver and Gold TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Idol T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03858, -116.14713 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 2,314 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Mar 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin about 30 ft. left of Such a Savage and climb a ramp up to a bolt that protects a 5.9 move to an easier vertical crack. This leads directly to the third bolt of Such A Savage. Clip three bolts on Such A Savage, then move left, away from Such A Savage, and climb steep face past 4 more bolts (with the crux above the last bolt) to a 2-bolt anchor. (80-foot rappel) From the anchor you can also climb up and right to join Such A Savage for a second pitch (5.10a) to the top.
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