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Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, 1993
Page Views: 1,025 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin about 30 ft. left of Such a Savage and climb a ramp up to a bolt that protects a 5.9 move to an easier vertical crack. This leads directly to the third bolt of Such A Savage. Clip three bolts on Such A Savage, then move left, away from Such A Savage, and climb steep face past 4 more bolts (with the crux above the last bolt) to a 2-bolt anchor. 80 foot rappel. From the anchor you can also climb up and right to join Such A Savage for a second pitch (5.10a) to the top.

Protection

8 bolts, optional pro for the crack

Photos

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Bob Gaines  
 
The upper section of the pitch has some of the best rock in Josh.

A direct start (10+) was also done just left of the starting ramp with a fixed pin, but it's long gone. Mar 2, 2007